Posts Tagged Short breaks
A Room for London: a new installation and hotel on the South Bank
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on January 16, 2012
Liz Bird was one of the first guests to spend the night at A Room for London, a 'holiday houseboat' architectural installation on top of the Queen Elizabeth Hall overlooking the Thames. It will be open for bookings to the rest of us this Thursday
Ship's log, Roi des Belges: Sunday 15 January, 2012. Time: 4pm. Weather: fine. Wind: south-westerly.
Crew safely on board and feeling very pleased with themselves, standing on the top deck sipping prosecco and waving at promenaders on the South Bank as they admire the Thames river views from Big Ben round to St Paul's. It has been an unusual embarkation, via a backstage door at the Queen Elizabeth Hall and up a specially installed lift to the roof.
Resembling a 1920s steamer and designed by architect David Kohn and artist Fiona Banner, the Roi des Belges interior is red-stained plywood with not a nautical blue and white stripe in sight. The spacious main deck's bow is lined with windows and a wraparound wool banquette. There's a massive bed, which cleverly converts into twin beds by sliding on runners built into the floor.
Behind is a table and chairs next to a kitchenette. A shower room and toilet – with portholes giving views of St Paul's or the London Eye – straddle the entrance hall at the back of the boat, or "stern".
The pièce de resistance is the snug upper deck, filled with London-themed books, which we quickly rename "The Bridge" and where we write up the ship's log. This weighty tome is where guests who managed to secure a night's stay when bookings went live last September (six months' worth of bookings snapped up in 12 minutes) are expected to chart their experience. Fountain pen provided.
Alain de Botton is the philosopher behind Living Architecture, the foundation which rents out unusual holiday homes and came up with the idea for the project. He put "demons", as his 3am log entry under the heading "sightings" when he stayed earlier this month. Our entry for the same hour reads: "Man, singing loudly, zig-zags across Waterloo Bridge".
Later this month, the boat will host its first "artist in residence", the multi-instrumentalist Andrew Bird who will play a one-off gig via live webcast (28 January). Other musicians such as David Byrne and Laurie Anderson will also perform, and writers including Michael Ondaatje and Jeanette Winterson will take part in A London Address there, a series of monthly writings and recordings .
We use our binoculars to study the faces of those beneath us on the South Bank: lovers, strollers, joggers. We are constantly drawn to the "vessel" opposite. As night falls, the opulent Savoy hotel lights up like a jewelled beacon, its crystal interiors shining out over the inky Thames.
Ship's log: 5pm. A police launch, its sirens blaring, speeds along the water, dodging the packed tourist boats. Trains rattle over Hungerford Bridge, snatches of conversation drift upwards, a saxophone wails plaintively.
Ship's log: 11.26pm. Crew retires for the night. Blinds are left untouched, but sleep doesn't come quickly. We keep sitting up and looking out at London's multi-coloured riverside.
Monday, 16 January. Ship's log: 7am. the sun has just risen. On the starboard side, The Shard pierces a pinky red sky.
Ship's log: 11am. Binoculars stowed, log up to date, crew disembarks, wishing their "trip" could have been longer.
• Be warned, the first sale of nights in the boat, for between January and June, sold out in just 12 minutes. Bookings for July to December will go on sale online this Thursday, 19 January, at midday GMT. A Room for London (aroomforlondon.co.uk, living–architecture.co.uk) sleeps two and costs £300 for a night, one night maximum
10 of the best films set in Berlin
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on August 17, 2011
Berlin has been the backdrop – and even the star – in movies from cold war spy thrillers to dramas about the collapse of East Germany. Andrew Pulver picks the top 10 films set in the city
• As featured in our Berlin city guide
People on Sunday (Menschen am Sonntag), Curt and Robert Siodmak, 1930
Silent cinema flourished in Germany during the Weimar years, and Berlin was immortalised in two particularly brilliant impressionist tributes: Walter Ruttmann's Berlin: Symphony of a Great City, and People on Sunday, which aimed to create a patchwork of ordinary Berliners' lives. This film, with its cast of non-professional actors and hidden camera, gets the pick – partly because of its extraordinary writing and directing credit roll. Virtually everyone – including Billy Wilder, Fred Zinnemann and Robert Siodmak – went on to make a name for themselves in Hollywood, after being forced out of Germany during the Nazi era.
• Bahnhof Zoo; Nikolassee
The Bourne Supremacy, Paul Greengrass, 2004
Hollywood came to Berlin in a big way with the sequel to The Bourne Identity; director Paul Greengrass was no doubt paying homage to Berlin's cold war past. The convoluted plot has Bourne (Matt Damon) showing up in Berlin to try to reconnect the threads of his past: modern Berlin makes a big shiny backdrop for the high-octane shenanigans. Added to which, Berlin doubles for other stops in Bourne's globetrotting – notably, a building at the Berlin Exhibition Grounds becomes a customs office in Naples.
• Exhibition Grounds, Messedamm; Alexanderplatz; Friedrichstrasse bridge; Ostbahnhof
Germany Year Zero, Roberto Rossellini, 1948
As a record of the rubble-strewn state of the city immediately after the second world war, Roberto Rossellini's film is hard to beat. Rossellini had made his name as a neo-realist in Rome, filming while the Germans were pulling out; he turned his lens on Germany itself shortly afterwards. Germany Year Zero is ostensibly about a 13-year-old scrabbling to survive in the chaos of defeated Germany, but it's the ruined city itself, with broken buldings and dubious denizens, that is the real subject.
• Neptune fountain, Alexanderplatz; Reich Chancellery and Hitler's bunker, Vossstrasse (now demolished)
Christiane F – We Children From Bahnhof Zoo (Christiane F – Wir Kinder From Bahnhof Zoo), Uli Edel, 1981
In the late 70s and early 80s, West Berlin's reputation for radicalism and experimentation made it a mecca for youth at the time: but there was a dark side, encapsulated in this notorious film about a drug-addicted prostitute. Based on her memoir, Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo, Uli Edel's film is the last word in Berlin misery, with the David Bowie soundtrack providing a patina of cold-as-ice glamour. Bahnhof Zoo was West Berlin's biggest rail station at the time, and the film-makers also shot extensively in Christiane's home district of Gropiusstadt, the southern suburb designed by the Bauhaus founder.
• Gropiusstadt; Bahnhof Zoo
Wings of Desire (Der Himmel über Berlin), Wim Wenders, 1987
Arguably the finest film about the divided city was made by Wim Wenders in 1987 – a fable about angels floating over a traumatised Berlin, listening to its inhabitants' thoughts, and attempting, in different ways, to heal their pain. The Wall itself was reconstructed in a studio, but Wenders made extensive use of the city's landmarks – including an extended tour of the modernist Berlin State Library, designed by Hans Scharoun.
• Berlin State Library House 2, Potsdamerstrasse; Friedrichstrasse; Gedächtniskirche, Kurfürstendamm
The Lives of Others (Das Leben der Anderen), Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck, 2006
Perhaps the most eye-opening film to have come out of contemporary German cinema's interest in raking over the communist era, this insight into the Stasi-ridden world of 1980s East Germany took advantage of the relatively unreconstructed Soviet chunk of the city. Director Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck managed to gain permission to film in the Stasi archives (now a museum), as well as stage a dance performance at the Volksbühne theatre.
• Stasi Zentrale, Ruschestrasse; Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
Run Lola Run, Tom Tykwer, 1998
Sprinting through the reunited city in the late 1990s, Franka Potente's Lola swiftly became an international symbol of Germany's new dynamism. Director Tom Tykwer hurled her pell-mell around Berlin, picking locations from east and west in a thriller that plays out three times, with three different outcomes. The film is very much a what-might-have-been story, with a happy ending, which is perhaps what we want to feel about Berlin itself.
• Oberbaumbrücke; Deutsche Oper U-Bahn; Tauroggenerstrasse
Goodbye, Lenin! Wolfgang Becker, 2003
A much-liked film that cleverly tackles the issues surrounding German unification – by ignoring them. A fervent East German socialist misses the Wende (reunification) as she's in a coma; on her recovery, and to spare her further shock, her son goes to elaborate lengths to maintain the fiction that East Germany is still in existence. Almost all the film was shot in the former East Berlin, including shots of lead Daniel Brühl speeding past celebrating football fans on the monumental Karl-Marx-Allee.
• Karl-Marx-Allee; Alexanderplatz
Aeon Flux, Karyn Kusama, 2005
Though it never found much favour with critics or audiences, this sci-fi thriller made superb use of Berlin's modernist buildings to evoke a post-apocalyptic society in the 25th century. One unlikely architectural spectacular after another was press-ganged into service. The Bauhaus Archiv doubled as an apartment block, the Hall of Condolence at the Krematorium Baumschulenweg was used for political meetings, and the Tierheim animal shelter became the setting for the government HQ.
• Bauhaus Archiv, Klingelhöferstrasse; Krematorium Baumschulenweg, Kiefholzstrasse; Tierheim Berlin, Hausvaterweg
One, Two, Three, Billy Wilder, 1961
Shot before the Berlin wall went up, but released after, Billy Wilder's scabrous political satire pitched itself into the clash of ideologies that the city symbolised. Wilder, of course, had left Germany in 1934 after the Nazis took power, his first film credit being People on Sunday (see above). Returning as a successful Hollywood film director, Wilder cast Jimmy Cagney as a Coca-Cola executive looking after his boss's teenage daughter. The film certainly hit a nerve, as Wilder intended it should.
• Brandenburg Gate; Gedächtniskirche, Kurfürstendamm; Tempelhof airport
• Andrew Pulver is the film editor of The Guardian
10 of the best films set in Berlin
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on August 17, 2011
Berlin has been the backdrop – and even the star – in movies from cold war spy thrillers to dramas about the collapse of East Germany. Andrew Pulver picks the top 10 films set in the city
• As featured in our Berlin city guide
People on Sunday (Menschen am Sonntag), Curt and Robert Siodmak, 1930
Silent cinema flourished in Germany during the Weimar years, and Berlin was immortalised in two particularly brilliant impressionist tributes: Walter Ruttmann's Berlin: Symphony of a Great City, and People on Sunday, which aimed to create a patchwork of ordinary Berliners' lives. This film, with its cast of non-professional actors and hidden camera, gets the pick – partly because of its extraordinary writing and directing credit roll. Virtually everyone – including Billy Wilder, Fred Zinnemann and Robert Siodmak – went on to make a name for themselves in Hollywood, after being forced out of Germany during the Nazi era.
• Bahnhof Zoo; Nikolassee
The Bourne Supremacy, Paul Greengrass, 2004
Hollywood came to Berlin in a big way with the sequel to The Bourne Identity; director Paul Greengrass was no doubt paying homage to Berlin's cold war past. The convoluted plot has Bourne (Matt Damon) showing up in Berlin to try to reconnect the threads of his past: modern Berlin makes a big shiny backdrop for the high-octane shenanigans. Added to which, Berlin doubles for other stops in Bourne's globetrotting – notably, a building at the Berlin Exhibition Grounds becomes a customs office in Naples.
• Exhibition Grounds, Messedamm; Alexanderplatz; Friedrichstrasse bridge; Ostbahnhof
Germany Year Zero, Roberto Rossellini, 1948
As a record of the rubble-strewn state of the city immediately after the second world war, Roberto Rossellini's film is hard to beat. Rossellini had made his name as a neo-realist in Rome, filming while the Germans were pulling out; he turned his lens on Germany itself shortly afterwards. Germany Year Zero is ostensibly about a 13-year-old scrabbling to survive in the chaos of defeated Germany, but it's the ruined city itself, with broken buldings and dubious denizens, that is the real subject.
• Neptune fountain, Alexanderplatz; Reich Chancellery and Hitler's bunker, Vossstrasse (now demolished)
Christiane F – We Children From Bahnhof Zoo (Christiane F – Wir Kinder From Bahnhof Zoo), Uli Edel, 1981
In the late 70s and early 80s, West Berlin's reputation for radicalism and experimentation made it a mecca for youth at the time: but there was a dark side, encapsulated in this notorious film about a drug-addicted prostitute. Based on her memoir, Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo, Uli Edel's film is the last word in Berlin misery, with the David Bowie soundtrack providing a patina of cold-as-ice glamour. Bahnhof Zoo was West Berlin's biggest rail station at the time, and the film-makers also shot extensively in Christiane's home district of Gropiusstadt, the southern suburb designed by the Bauhaus founder.
• Gropiusstadt; Bahnhof Zoo
Wings of Desire (Der Himmel über Berlin), Wim Wenders, 1987
Arguably the finest film about the divided city was made by Wim Wenders in 1987 – a fable about angels floating over a traumatised Berlin, listening to its inhabitants' thoughts, and attempting, in different ways, to heal their pain. The Wall itself was reconstructed in a studio, but Wenders made extensive use of the city's landmarks – including an extended tour of the modernist Berlin State Library, designed by Hans Scharoun.
• Berlin State Library House 2, Potsdamerstrasse; Friedrichstrasse; Gedächtniskirche, Kurfürstendamm
The Lives of Others (Das Leben der Anderen), Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck, 2006
Perhaps the most eye-opening film to have come out of contemporary German cinema's interest in raking over the communist era, this insight into the Stasi-ridden world of 1980s East Germany took advantage of the relatively unreconstructed Soviet chunk of the city. Director Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck managed to gain permission to film in the Stasi archives (now a museum), as well as stage a dance performance at the Volksbühne theatre.
• Stasi Zentrale, Ruschestrasse; Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
Run Lola Run, Tom Tykwer, 1998
Sprinting through the reunited city in the late 1990s, Franka Potente's Lola swiftly became an international symbol of Germany's new dynamism. Director Tom Tykwer hurled her pell-mell around Berlin, picking locations from east and west in a thriller that plays out three times, with three different outcomes. The film is very much a what-might-have-been story, with a happy ending, which is perhaps what we want to feel about Berlin itself.
• Oberbaumbrücke; Deutsche Oper U-Bahn; Tauroggenerstrasse
Goodbye, Lenin! Wolfgang Becker, 2003
A much-liked film that cleverly tackles the issues surrounding German unification – by ignoring them. A fervent East German socialist misses the Wende (reunification) as she's in a coma; on her recovery, and to spare her further shock, her son goes to elaborate lengths to maintain the fiction that East Germany is still in existence. Almost all the film was shot in the former East Berlin, including shots of lead Daniel Brühl speeding past celebrating football fans on the monumental Karl-Marx-Allee.
• Karl-Marx-Allee; Alexanderplatz
Aeon Flux, Karyn Kusama, 2005
Though it never found much favour with critics or audiences, this sci-fi thriller made superb use of Berlin's modernist buildings to evoke a post-apocalyptic society in the 25th century. One unlikely architectural spectacular after another was press-ganged into service. The Bauhaus Archiv doubled as an apartment block, the Hall of Condolence at the Krematorium Baumschulenweg was used for political meetings, and the Tierheim animal shelter became the setting for the government HQ.
• Bauhaus Archiv, Klingelhöferstrasse; Krematorium Baumschulenweg, Kiefholzstrasse; Tierheim Berlin, Hausvaterweg
One, Two, Three, Billy Wilder, 1961
Shot before the Berlin wall went up, but released after, Billy Wilder's scabrous political satire pitched itself into the clash of ideologies that the city symbolised. Wilder, of course, had left Germany in 1934 after the Nazis took power, his first film credit being People on Sunday (see above). Returning as a successful Hollywood film director, Wilder cast Jimmy Cagney as a Coca-Cola executive looking after his boss's teenage daughter. The film certainly hit a nerve, as Wilder intended it should.
• Brandenburg Gate; Gedächtniskirche, Kurfürstendamm; Tempelhof airport
• Andrew Pulver is the film editor of The Guardian
A great white hope in Avilés, Asturias
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on July 1, 2011
The Asturian city of Avilés is betting on its new Oscar Niemeyer arts centre delivering the 'Guggenheim effect'
If first impressions were everything, you might not bother with Avilés. The A66 motorway takes you along the bank of a river that eventually opens into the Cantabrian Sea, but there's no water to be seen through a mephitic landscape of factories and warehouses. As you approach the city centre through the industrial grime, however, two things catch your eye: on one side of the estuary, a harmonious jumble of old town roofs; on the other side, a collection of grand buildings in curvaceous white forms.
Avilés is a revelation wrapped up in a surprise. The northern Spanish region of Asturias, under the radar for far too long, is finally taking its rightful place in British hearts thanks to its unspoiled beaches, its mountain landscapes, its gastronomy and idiosyncratic local culture. Oviedo is posh and pulchritudinous, Gijón a rough-and-tumble harbour town. Until quite recently, Avilés had seemed the post-industrial Cinderella of the three. Yet, thanks in large measure to a futuristic new cultural centre designed by Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, things are picking up.
On an evening in late May I walked up to the Plaza de España, the city's front room, where one side is formed by the imposing Town Hall, and a few steps away lies the Palacio de Ferrera (Plaza de España 9, +34 985 129080, nh-hotels.com, doubles from €70), an urban stately home transformed into the best hotel in Avilés. From the square, cobbled and flagstoned streets radiate out into the best-preserved medieval city in Asturias.
It was getting on to 11 o'clock, but I needn't have worried about finding a decent dinner. The Casa Alvarín (Calle de Los Alas 2, +34 985 540 113, casaalvarin.com), a cider house with sawdust on the floors and Joselito hams hanging from the ceiling, was still serving up plates of octopus and slabs of Cabrales cheese.
Historic and cultivated, with one of the best harbours on the Cantabrian coast, for centuries the city did well out of fishing and trade. In the early 1950s the rot set in. Avilés was earmarked for an industrial future by Franco's government. The wetlands of the ría (estuary) were partially drained, the course of the river altered, and the giant factory complex of Spain's premier steel works, Ensidesa, installed within a few hundred yards of Avilés' charming old town. Smoke from factories painted the stones of the old town a shade of charcoal grey and the estuary became a dead zone.
In recent years, however, the spiral changed direction. The 1960s-built airport, 15km out of town, was extended in 1994 and again in 2000 (EasyJet flies there from Stansted). And now the city has just lucked out big-time. Niemeyer, the architect responsible for the building of Brasilia and masterpieces such as the contemporary art museum in Niterói, over the bay from Rio de Janeiro, had won the Prince of Asturias prize for architecture in 1989. In 2005 the Prince of Asturias Foundation contacted past winners as part of the prize's 25th anniversary. Niemeyer's contribution to the celebrations was a design for a cultural centre, to be sited wherever the government of Asturias might see fit; it would be his first building in Spain. As it happened, Avilés was just considering how best to engineer a socioeconomic change in the city by means of contemporary culture, earmarking parts of its decaying ría for a project that might have the same transforming effect that the Guggenheim had on Bilbao. The Centro Niemeyer (centroniemeyer.org) has just opened, and is intended to be the beginning of what will eventually become the Isla de la Innovación, a Norman Foster-designed "green city" entirely transforming the ría.
The Centro is a composition of simple forms arranged over a wide open space, described by its creator, with all the youthful idealism of his 103 years, as "a square open to the sea for all the men and women of the world, a place for cohabitation, education, culture and peace".
What strikes you first is the sudden glare of whiteness in this grey-green temperate zone. The auditorium, which seats 961, is housed in a wave-shaped building, the stage opening on to the square for open-air concerts. A long, low, curving form known informally as "the banana" has a cinema, meeting rooms and a cafeteria. The cupola, made by spraying white concrete on to an inflatable dome, is the centre's main exhibition space.
Shows lined up for the rest of 2011 include a Julian Schnabel Polaroid exhibition, a concert by Brazilian singer and guitarist Gilberto Gil (29 July), and the Bridge Project, with Sam Mendes directing Kevin Spacey in Richard III in September. The Niemeyer has just four permanent staff, but a roster of advisers that most arts centres would give their eyeteeth for, among them Spacey (theatre), Brad Pitt (architecture), Stephen Hawking (science), Woody Allen (cinema, and the occasional appearance on trad jazz clarinet).
The Centro is now the city's main attraction, and is just a short walk from the heart of old Avilés, where most tourists will spend the rest of their time, exploring the medieval centre's network of pretty streets, such as Calle de la Ferrería and Calle de Galiana. Avilés has few major monuments, though you wouldn't want to miss the church of San Francisco, its Romanesque facade eaten away by centuries of salt spray, or the barrio of Sabugo, formerly the fishing quarter, where you can see the stone table beside the church where mariners met to finalise their travel plans.
What the city has most of, however, are bars and taverns, restaurants and tapas joints. Avilés is rich in old-fashioned grocers' stores with high ceilings and flagstone floors, selling everything from tinned cabbage to maize flour and jars of tuna in olive oil. There are two Michelin-starred restaurants – Koldo Miranda (La Cruz de Illas 20, +34 985 511446, restaurantekoldomiranda.com) and Real Balneario (Avenida de Juan Sitges, +34 985 518613, realbalneario.com), above the beach at nearby Salinas, with its beautifully presented "new Asturian" food and sea views to die for. There are also gastrobars such as Sal de Vinos (Calle de la Muralla 36, +34 984 832053) and La Dársena de Fernando (Calle de Llano Ponte 7, +34 984 832900, ladarsenadefernando.com). In the pastry shops, the range of traditional sweetmeats has been joined by a new invention: dome-shaped little cakes variously known as Niemerinos, Niemeyitas and Avimeyers.
A "Niemeyer effect", smaller in scale but analogous to the "Guggenheim effect", is already at work in the city.
• EasyJet (easyjet.com) has flights from Stansted to Asturias, half an hour's drive from Avilés, from £43 return
High design, low price: UK holiday homes
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on October 1, 2010
Alain de Botton's set of cutting-edge, affordable holiday homes is bringing modernism to the masses
The experience of spending a night in an architect-designed space is limited usually to those lucky enough to own one, or to afford a top-end boutique hotel. The philosopher Alain de Botton and a group of top architects are hoping to change this with his latest project, a series of contemporary and, he says, affordable holiday homes in the UK, designed by renowned architects. The aim is to persuade the less elevated among us to spend the weekend and return home more enthusiastic about modernism.
"We want people to discover what it's like to live, eat and sleep in an architect-designed house," says de Botton, who got the idea while writing The Architecture of Happiness. "Most modern buildings are in private hands, or tend to be places one passes through – airports, offices." I don't know; I've slept in a few airports in my time.
The not-for-profit enterprise, called Living Architecture, is a self-styled "educational body". As such, it is hoping that its prices will attract ordinary, non design-savvy people to its high-design houses. On a mid-week night during low season (November or February, say) you can stay for £20 a night per person, but prices rise to £65 a night per person for peak periods. Both costs are on the proviso you can fill every one of eight beds, so not suited to a weekend getaway for a couple.
First I head to Suffolk to see the Balancing Barn, which will be the first house to open, at the end of this month. It's extraordinary. From the front it looks like a small bungalow, but from the side, you can see it's a long silver barn – covered in reflective steel tiles – that hangs dramatically off the edge of a slope like the bus in The Italian Job. It even sways a little if you jump up and down in the living room. Mark Robinson, the director of Living Architecture, gives us a demonstration. "It used to be even livelier!"
The setting is exceptionally peaceful. The house, designed by Dutch firm MVRDV, is a few miles inland from Walberswick. It is surrounded by pine trees and wild plum trees. A disguised trap door fit for a Bond villain opens on to a cobbled terrace directly underneath the cantilevered living room. A swing hangs off the end.
Inside it's clad in timber. An expensive-looking open-plan kitchen – "it's actually only Miele", says Mark (they're keen not to be branded too high-end) – has floor-to-ceiling windows and designer crockery. It leads on to a long, light-filled hallway with wooden joists that slice diagonally across the windows. All four double bedrooms sit in a row off the hall. They are filled with tricksy digital art that references Constable and Gainsborough, bespoke beds, bespoke carpets and more geometric woodwork. All have en suite showers, and two have baths by the foot of the bed.
But it's the large living space that opens out at the end of corridor – the bit that hangs off the edge – that provides the wow-factor I'd been waiting for. A huge floor-to-ceiling picture window overlooks woods, meadows and a pond. And taking up most of the floor, like a large rug, is a glass window with a big drop below.
The room is spare. A TV is hidden away, shelves are empty except for one groaning with de Botton's entire works. It reminds me of a lobby of an advertising agency.
"We want people to take away ideas when they come and stay," says Mark. But I wonder whether spending a week here would instil in me a love of modern architecture. For all its showmanship, the Balancing Barn is a cold space, and a little isolated. Once inside and enjoying your break, it would be easy to forget its extrenal appearance.
How will they ensure that a wide range of people stay in their houses? In short, they're not sure. "There is a risk that only the demographic already interested in modern architecture will be drawn to them," Mark says. "But I think the interest is there. We're not trying to shock people – we've received lots of encouraging comments from locals and passers-by."
A few miles away on the coast is the Dune House, an altogether more inviting prospect. The location is sublime. It sits on a shingle beach a five-minute stroll from Thorpeness, with views of empty dunes, the beach, the North Sea and a vast sky.
The ground floor walls are almost entirely made of glass, the dunes rising up to the window ledges on the sides, giving the impression you are nestled within them. The first floor is clad in black timber, and the roof has four asymmetrical peaks clad in a rust-coloured steel. But it doesn't look out of place: the pointy roof and the steel are designed to mimic the terracotta tiles and gables on neighbouring roofs.
Inside, like the Balancing Barn, it's minimalist, but here it feels cosy and simple, softer somehow. Mark shows us round, saying architecty things such as "cupboards would have destroyed the space". Personally, I quite like cupboards. But instead, the four upstairs bedrooms each contain just a double bed, a freestanding bath located at just the right height for sea-gazing, and lots of pegs on the timber-lined walls to hang stuff. Downstairs, it's largely open plan, with a dining table, and a sofa huddled round a dramatic sunken pit. You can walk outside straight on to the beach.
The house, which opens in December, is designed by Norwegian architects Jarmund/Vigsnaes, apparently known for their "creative responses to the highly seasonal Nordic landscape". I think this means their houses are good in cold weather, and the Dune House is furnished with under-floor heating and a cosy log-burning stove to stave off those chilly easterly winds. It's a house to hunker down in, to get out the Scrabble and whisky, light the stove and settle in for the night with a gale blowing outside.
A few days later, I'm off to Kent. The Shingle House is a modern take on a wooden fisherman's cottage on other-worldly Dungeness beach in Kent, and opens next month. Actual fishermen live next door, fourth generation. It's practically my dream house: simple lime-washed timber walls, vintage furniture, four cosy bedrooms that sleep eight, sunken bath, wood-burning stove and a snug mezzanine with a huge window that overlooks the eerie landscape out to sea and, on a clear day, France.
The house is designed by young and hip NORD Architecture in Glasgow. It is the least architecturally demanding of the three, yet I took more delight in its clever details. The internal courtyard with slatted screens that pivot so you can angle them against the ever-present wind; and the fact that each room is designed around the time of day it catches the sun.
The existing cottage, complete with smoke house, was demolished. The Shingle House has been built on the same footprint to keep the planners happy, who wanted to retain the appearance of three separate buildings.
It's understandable: there are no holiday homes on Dungeness to speak of, and residents are fiercely protective of their beautiful, hostile landscape. It's a desolate expanse, dotted with boats and huts and a couple of lighthouses, overlooked by Dungeness power station. Tourists come to stare at Derek Jarman's garden, a stone's throw away.
Two more holiday homes open next year: the first, a medieval hall-type structure with a vast timber roof in Cockthorpe, Norfolk, designed by Michael and Patty Hopkins; the second, a monastic retreat in concrete near Salcombe, south Devon, by Peter Zumthor. After that, they plan to open one a year.
Guests staying in these extraordinary new houses may well be designers, architects and creative types from London. Or Living Architecture may succeed in its laudable aim of finding a wider audience. But either way, they are a welcome addition to the UK holiday home scene.
• Living Architecture (living-architecture.co.uk). Prices for a four-night mid-week break start from £725 (the Balancing Barn), £625 (the Shingle House) and £760 (the Dune House)
B&B review | Salt House, St Ives, Cornwall
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on August 6, 2010
If you want olde worlde style, this probably isn't for you. But everyone else will fall in love with this stylish St Ives outpost
The usual suspects (sun, sea, surfing) are all present and correct on this Cornish B&B's website. There the stereotypes end. While the sky is predictably azure, the house is a big white concrete rectangle, and the rooms wouldn't look out of place in a Design Hotels handbook.
Someone has clearly decided to do things their way – and since such a website rarely comes my way, I'm itching to get past the westbound caravans and in to St Ives. I turn off the main thoroughfare into a street of predominantly inter-war houses in plum positions looking across to Carbis Bay. There it is – the cube – looking slightly out of place but intriguing. It faces the sea, on an elevated road; only a beachfront location could beat it.
Alan Spencer opens the door and, from a narrow lobby, takes me up one floor to a landing. Unobtrusive etched glass panels riveted to the wall tell me that one room is called North, and the one beside it, South.
We go North. At this point I should advise anyone who prefers ye olde worlde bedde and breakfaste to go and mow the lawn. Everyone else, come with me.
North is an open-plan expanse of whiteness and glass. Through sliding glass doors is my own private balcony and a seascape beyond.
As with all minimal but well conceived interiors (rather than the places which stick one dodgy print of a gerbera on the wall and furnish from flatpacks), it is all about the detail. The floor is solid oak. A walnut (Conran) sideboard bears a selection of ground coffees, Orla Kiely mugs, and Jing teas (new B&B fad) in a Perspex box.
Grey wool BoConcept easy chairs swivel so I can watch sky or screen – Samsung's latest LED HD.
At the opposite end to the glass windows is a solid sliding door which rolls back to reveal what can only be described as a destination bathroom, of the kind more often found at five-star resorts in the Maldives. The Kurv bath is shaped like an ostrich egg.
So what's the story, I ask Alan and his wife Sharon, later. Now, here's a niggle – there is no guest sitting room, which means conversations must take place in hallways or in my room.
The house started life as a "quite ugly, boring 70s detached", Sharon says. Luckily planners took their modern eco-development (solar panels and a living green roof are next on the cards) seriously.
It is a spectacular place to stay. I'd prefer to make tea in a pot than a cup, and perhaps, when a lone female is staying, breakfast (from a stylish menu, with options such as Greek yoghurt with honey, and boiled eggs with soldiers) could be brought in by Sharon, rather than Alan. But waking enfolded in cotton from one of the White Company's most expensive ranges to watch the mist lift over the Monterey pine, chestnut and mimosa trees, is heavenly. Cornish cubism is about to take off in St Ives.
• Try the Blas Burgerworks on The Warren in St Ives (01736 797272, blasburgerworks.co.uk, booking advised) for unexpected brilliance at dinner
The seven wonders of Wales
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on March 1, 2010
An old rhyme gives Dixe Wills the excuse to celebrate an overlooked corner of Wales on St David's Day
"Pistyll Rhaeadr and Wrexham steeple,
Snowdon's mountain without its people,
Overton yew trees, St Winefride's wells,
Llangollen bridge and Gresford bells"
Penned by an anonymous 18th-century English traveller, this piece of doggerel, called the Seven Wonders of Wales, probably owes its survival to the fact that, unlike the Eight Wonders of the World, all the Welsh marvels cited are still with us. Furthermore, since six of them are in a small pocket in the north-east of the country, you can collect the set in a long weekend.
So it was that I found myself cycling high into the Berwyn Mountains in search of Pistyll Rhaeadr, a waterfall, which at 240 feet, is a true Welsh wonder. There can't be many outdoor attractions that are best seen in the rain, but a waterfall is one of them. High above my head, the rain-swollen river Rhaeadr tumbled over the precipice in thick silver threads. A further six hours of solid downpour rather took the edge off my exultation.
The cosiness of Cornerstones – an extraordinary B&B that has fused together three of Llangollen's 16th-century houses – was thus a welcome sight, and I was soon looking down at a heron stalking the River Dee, just a couple of wing flaps from the medieval Llangollen bridge.
Of course, not everyone can get excited about the art of spanning rivers. However, even the least ardent fan would have to admit to the graciousness of these particular arches, each one a slightly different size to fit neatly on to the rocks below. But it's the setting that really makes it – Llangollen's jumble of black-and-white houses swiftly giving way to wooded hills beyond – and in the glorious morning sunshine the pinky fawn stones positively shone in the morning sunlight.
The rest of my day was to be spent with yews, a steeple, a set of bells and some curative waters – not always the first things that spring to mind when considering wonders. However, I will confess that there is something about the way that yews rage against the dying of the light: some managing it for thousand of years. The 23 standing guard around Overton's St Mary's church are relative youngsters but some still go back to the Middle Ages.
At St Giles' church in nearby Wrexham, a stone bears the faded legend, "This steeple was completed in 1506." The difficulty is that the "steeple" is clearly a tower. A very fine 147-foot sandstone tower, it has to be said and, when I went up on to its roof, I was able to testify that it also commanded extraordinary views of mountains to the west and the Dee valley to the east. However, a steeple it is not.
Once upon a time, before we all became so noisy, you would have been able to hear Gresford bells in Wrexham, even though Gresford is three miles away. Gresford's Tower Captain, Hilton Roberts, took me up a stone spiral staircase and introduced me to the monsters. Bell ringing, he told me, is a perfect fusion of music and science. Peals may have fanciful names like Stedman Triples and Yorkshire Surprise Major, but they are strictly governed by mathematical formulae. Logical thinkers they may be, but bell ringers are evidently also touched by a streak of eccentricity. We were up above the bells when Hilton, no spring chicken, suddenly jumped down on to one and started swinging on it, Tarzan-like, just so that I could hear what it sounded like. I was three yards away. It was loud.
It was another sort of madness that brought about St Winefride's well. A rejected suitor called Caradog sliced off young Winefride's head and where it fell a miraculous spring gushed forth. "People from all over the world come here now," a warden told me, kindly handing me a bottle of freshly drawn water. The well itself is a rather wonderful star-shape that feeds water to a pool in which the sick and ailing lower themselves to be healed.
I mentioned my visit to Paulene at Celyn Villa, my home from home for the night, asking her if she knew anyone who'd been miraculously cured.
"Ah well, strange you should say that," she replied. "I had a verruca for years that wouldn't respond to any treatment whatsoever. I dipped it in the pool and it went away completely."
I'm hanging on to that bottle.
Bright and early next morning the happy chatter of fellow train passengers accompanied me round the north coast to Bangor and the final wonder, Snowdon. The donkey ride from Llanberis to the top, which our poet may well have enjoyed, was replaced in 1896 by the mountain railway. I confess to having felt slightly guilty as the tiny steam engine strained to push our single carriage upwards, but this was partially assuaged by the fact that I was only going as far as Clogwyn, three-quarters of the way, where I joined a long thin line of people marching to the top.
It was quite a party at the summit: 70 or 80 of us – families, groups of friends, a school field trip, a number of very sprightly pensioners – all excited about having conquered Wales' tallest mountain. And why not? Given a clear day it's possible to see Ireland's Wicklow Mountains from here. Having arrived just before the brand new £8m summit visitor centre was officially opened, I whipped out a flask of tea for my celebratory toast: I had succeeded in visiting all seven wonders of Wales.
Or had I? The poem clearly stipulated "Snowdon's mountain without its people". Well now, I mused, as I sauntered back down to Llanberis, that would be a wonder.
Way to go
Virgin Trains Single from London to Chester from £8 return; 08457 222333; virgintrains.com. Arriva Trains Wales, single from Chester to Gobowen £6.50 return, and Bangor to Chester £22.20 return; 0870 9000773, arrivatrainswales.co.uk.
Snowdon Mountain Railway Llanberis to summit return, adult £23, child £16; 0871 7200033; snowdonrailway.co.uk.
Cornerstones B&B, Llangollen. Doubles from £70; +44 (0)1978 861569, cornerstones-guesthouse.co.uk.
Celyn Villa, Carmel Near Holywell. Doubles from £56; +44 (0)1352 710853, celynvilla.co.uk.
St Winefride's Well, Holywell. Adult 80p, child 20p; +44 (0)1352 713054, saintwinefrideswell.com.
TwiTrip to Leeds – the verdict
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on February 25, 2010
Benji Lanyado's Twitter-led trip in search of the soul of Leeds took him from baroque music in a Grade II-listed building to a punk gig in an old working men's club - via the oldest pub in the city, naturally
This TwiTrip had a tough act to follow. The finale of my last Twitter-fuelled adventure - to Blackpool - involved a transvestite cabaret act. Hopefully, Leeds was up to the challenge.
As with all of our previous adventures, nothing was planned. I was to turn up at Leeds station, sling questions into the Twittersphere, and wait for tips to be fired at my profile. Then I would do exactly as I was told. You can see how it played out here ... and below you'll find what the good people of Twitter helped me find.
The Twitter tips
It has become TwiTrip tradition to precede the day's events with a little train-time trivia. As I set off from King's Cross, whizzed through snow-covered Peterborough and headed for Leeds, I requested some intriguing facts to keep me entertained. The Twitterers delivered. I was informed by kateigray that the tripe stall in Kirkgate market was the first on the internet; by Seven_Arts that Jimmy Saville lived in Roundhay Park; and by MatMurray that he once saw a woman fall over in the Leeds City Markets, after which a nearby dog tried to mount her. Not all trivia is created equal.
Then I was there, posing like a hopeless tourist in front of the station. And I was hungry. The mob roared loudly, and there seemed a near-unanimous recommendation. According to BigLittleThings, LeedsGrub, and tenderbranston, the best sarnie in town was to be found at Pickles & Potter. It seemed dangerous to ignore the sandwich advice of anyone who traded as 'tenderbranston', so I duly plodded into the town centre and joined a queue stretching out of the door and into the Queens Arcade - this was clearly a popular choice. Inside, they made me a thing of beauty: slices of red-centred beef joined in gastronomic matrimony with a hunk of smoked cheese, a wholegrain bap, and some kind of marmalade. A very good start indeed.
Next up, I requested some cultural tips ... a wide remit that was answered by scores of tips. I was most intrigued by Marc_Leeds' suggestion of a "forty-part motet" at Opera North in the Grand Theatre. The installation is housed in an assembly room on the upper levels of the Grade II-listed Grand Theatre on New Briggate, and comprises 40 audio speakers arranged around the room, each playing an individual part of Thomas Tallis' Spem in Alium. The effect was extraordinary. In pale midday light filtered by stained-glass windows on all sides, people were drifting in and out, settling on benches equidistant from all 40 speakers, and closing their eyes to listen. I joined them, and - quite literally - became surrounded by music. Have a listen for yourself below.
I needed to refuel, and took the advice of amandeep86 and loveleedsmore by nipping to the Opposite Cafe stand in the Victoria Arcade, where a nifty barista made me a coffee topped with a beautiful swirling foam motif. It powered me onwards, to the marvellous tiled hall of the Leeds Art Gallery, as recommended by djdavedanger and leedslibraries, who had tweeted at me from their offices inside the building.
Having tasted the cultural offerings of a couple of Leeds blockbusters, I wanted something a little off-grid. Luluartist came up with the goods, directing me to Project Space Leeds, a fascinating venue on the ground floor of a newly-built block on the banks of the canals south of the train station. Inside the industrial, high-ceilinged space, the work of local artists was displayed on sparse walls - Matthew Shelton's piece was a collage of drawings on pieces of paper found scattered across the city, including certificates of achievement, shopping lists, and ASBOs. Inventive.
It was Friday, and it was 5pm. I had little choice but to go to the pub. Tonypreece directed me to Whitelocks, the oldest pub in Leeds, first licenced in 1715. It took me half an hour to find it. The pub is hidden down a tiny alley leading off Briggate, accessed by a blink-and-you'll-miss-it gap in between a Carphone Warehouse and a branch of Northern Rock. Once located, under a illuminated lantern and a fug of cigarette smoke wafting from the smokers congregated outside, it was superb; a nostalgic ye olde pub of polished brass pumps, stained glass and a cacophony of post-work chatter.
Onwards. More pubs. Jccgardner, lindseyhampton and steererscott aided my crawl, pointing me towards The North Bar, home to a creative crowd and more beers than you could shake a drunkard at. I opted for a delicious pint of Roosters, brewed just north of the city in Knaresborough, before moving on to my next stop. Mostly due to its name, and Talullah and guyatkinson's recommendation, I headed to trendy bar A Nation of Shopkeepers, where the stringent door policy refused entry to those wearing sportswear, pirates, fancy dress, large groups, jefforys (anyone?), and grumpy faces. A largely student crowd were largely drunk, crammed on to leather sofas under arty projections as electro music beeped around the room.
My stomach needed lining, and foodiesarah and ecalpemosgreen recommended Nash's as the finest fish and chips in the city ... perfect. A giant lump of cod coated in thick batter and pillowed by chunky chips basted in salt and vinegar. Yes and more yes.
Fuelled by delicious carbs and salty fat, I headed for Headingley for my final stop of the day. Tips had been flying in about the Brudenell Social Club since the TwiTrip was announced - one tipster, djthedutchess, described it as a "gorgeous, shabby, ubercool ex working men's club in Hyde Park". The band playing that night, The Eureka Machines, had noticed the Twitter noise, and invited me along, too, bless their little punk rock socks. The venue was superb; on a suburban backstreet in the Hyde Park area, where a community pub hosts live music in a musty low-ceilinged side room. I also managed to snap my favourite photo of the day just outside, as an immaculately-Mohawked local loitered near the entrance.
And the Eureka Machines did the business, blasting out punk to an adoring local crowd as front man Chris Catalyst cracked jokes in between songs. Their final number even came with a wonderfully soppy intro that you can treat your ears to here:
From baroque polyphony in a Grade II-listed building to a punk gig in an old working men's club ... another end to another excellent TwiTrip. Thanks for all your help.
• Benji stayed at the Quebecs Hotel (doubles £89 per night including breakfast and VAT; +44 (0)113 244 8989; theetoncollection.com/quebecs), as recommended by LoveLeedsMore and tonypreece, which has double rooms from £89 B&B. East Coast's trains operate direct up to every half hour between London and Leeds. Advance returns, booked online, start from £26 Standard Class or £94 First Class. Times and fares also on 08457 225225 or by visiting any staffed station
• All photographs by Benji Lanyado
The knowledge: London’s secret buildings
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on January 14, 2010
Guardian architecture critic Jonathan Glancey discovers three exquisite places of worship sitting in the shadows of the Square Mile's financial giants
Skye’s the limit for designer pads
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on March 10, 2009
A Scottish architecture practice is making its mark on the island with its stunning holiday homes and B&Bs, writes Phyllis Richardson
People don't usually travel to Skye for the architecture. An overabundance of natural beauty and unspoilt landscape, from the dramatic peaks of the Cuillin Hills to the shimmering lochs and pristine coastline, draw many tourists who would happily stay in a leaky caravan or a fluttering tent. But for those who like a bit of modern comfort, there are now some more appealing options, thanks to the innovative thinking of an award-winning Scottish architecture practice.
Dualchas was founded in 1996 by twin brothers Neil and Alasdair Stephen, who grew up in Glasgow, but whose mother is from Skye. At that time they were concerned with building high-quality, affordable housing that didn't mar the natural landscape it sat in. In 1999 they were joined by Mary Arnold-Forster, who "gave up building kitchen extensions in London to design houses in the Highlands". Together they have become known for designs that preserve the form of the traditional Scottish longhouse and respect the natural surroundings, while integrating high-quality materials and finishes with modern concepts of space and light.
They have built a number of year-round and holiday homes on the Isle of Skye, several for clients who have returned to the Highlands or Western Isles after decades spent on the mainland or abroad. While Dualchas never set out to build holiday lets, fortunately for Skye tourists several of these properties are now available as self-catering houses and B&Bs.
One of the firm's early projects on the island was the Longhouse, designed by Mary Arnold-Forster. The house is owned by Richard Goslan, a journalist based in Glasgow, who spends time there with his family but lets it out for about 40 weeks a year. Goslan was a boyhood friend of the Stephens brothers and was keen to have a place in Skye designed by them.
"What they are doing is so much better than the standard Scottish housing," he enthuses. "You've got all this amazing landscape in the Highlands, and most houses are just pebble-dashed nightmares. But in their houses, with these windows, even if the weather is appalling you can just sit with a glass of wine and watch it change."
Located in Tokavaig on the southern Sleat peninsula, the Longhouse has many of the features that Dualchas has become famous for: high-ceilinged open-plan living spaces, quality fittings, wood floors with underfloor heating, efficient wood-burning fires at the centre of the house and, most importantly, lots of natural light pouring through floor-to-ceiling windows.
Driving in from the Skye Bridge to Broadford, I spotted my first Dualchas design without even looking at the address, mainly because of those huge windows but also because of the simple but elegant shape. It was the B&B Tigh an Dochais in Harrapool, run by Neil Hope and Lesley Unwin.
The house sits with one long side facing Broadford Bay so the vast windows overlook the open water. Lesley works locally as a GP while Neil has thrown himself happily into the running of the B&B, not only keeping a well-designed house but stocking local produce for guests.
Heading north to the Waternish peninsula, we found the Tern House and the Old Byre just off the road to the tiny village of Stein. Elma Sands and her husband bought the properties, a stone cottage and outbuilding, last year. Both had been renovated by Dualchas for the previous residents, who let the small house and ran a B&B in the main house. Though she hasn't continued with the B&B, Elma still lets the Old Byre as a self-catering cottage. Originally from Sutherland, Elma lived abroad with her family for 30 years, but they have recently returned to live permanently on Skye. "We had been talking to Mary about building a house," she explains in the glass-walled kitchen of Tern House, "but then we passed by this place and the 'For Sale' sign was out, and we just couldn't say no."
The Old Byre is a very intimate little retreat. The downstairs is 70 square metres, including a generous shower room. But with the ample windows, double-height ceiling, slate floors and beautiful oak fittings, it is a little box of luxury. Though Elma is not convinced that anyone would want to actually sleep in the loft - a little mezzanine eyrie accessed by a beautiful but steep oak ladder - it is a wonderful place to sit and read or relax.
Our stay in Calath, a cottage overlooking Loch Harport on the western Minginish peninsula, was so bright and cosy, despite the wild weather, that we never even lit the fire. But though we were warm and dry we also felt the presence of the landscape through large glass doors that frame the loch, and a great south window looking over the Cuillins.
We did do as Richard Goslan recommends, however, and sit comfortably sipping a drink (ours was a Talisker from the distillery down the road) and watching the weather change.
The combination of rugged natural beauty, modern comforts and fine dining (not to mention the cost of travelling abroad) will only make Skye more popular in years to come, but it still has a long way to go before its roads look anything like the southern coast of England on a vaguely sunny day.
The famed Three Chimneys restaurant in Colbost sits demurely on a little road that leads to Neist Point at the western tip of the Duirinish peninsula, where you can take a rather exhilarating, windblown walk to the lighthouse. For years the restaurant has drawn a fair number of gastro-tourists to the area. But nowadays the dinner-bound travellers will notice a pleasant addition to the scene: just before Colbost, in Skinidin, is the Timber House, built for a couple who run an interiors shop in Edinburgh.
Like other Dualchas clients the couple wanted a remote holiday getaway that fitted the rural setting. It resembles a small barn, but has beautifully ageing larch walls and, as ever, those huge windows. From certain viewpoints the house appears to sit happily on its own in the open landscape.
Luckily for us, Skye is one place in the UK where that can still be achieved.
Essentials
The Longhouse (0141 637 3334; skyelonghouse.com), Tokavaig. Four double bedrooms, two bathrooms. Walking distance to a ruined castle. From £700 a week.
Tigh an Dochais B&B (01471 820022; skyebedbreakfast.co.uk), Harrapool, three double bedrooms from £40 per person. Walking distance to the Skye Serpentarium (skyeserpentarium.org.uk).
The Old Byre at Tern House (01470 592332; ternhouse.com). Tiny self-catering studio for two. Walking distance to the Loch Bay seafood restaurant (01470 592235; lochbay-seafood-restaurant.co.uk) and the village of Stein. From £230 for three days.
Calath (07746 470742; calath.co.uk), overlooking Loch Harport, sleeps six to eight. Walking distance to the Talisker distillery (taliskerwhisky.com). From £450 a week.
The Timber House, Skinidin, near Colbost, (01456 486358; wildernesscottages.co.uk). Timber-clad house with two bedrooms. Walking distance to the Three Chimneys restaurant (threechimneys.co.uk). From £400 a week.