Posts Tagged Retail industry

From the archive, 15 September 1962: American-style shopping centres?

Originally published in the Guardian on 15 September 1962

No one who has visited the United States since the war can fail to be impressed by the shopping centres developed there during the last 15 years. The Co-operative Wholesale Society recently sent out a mission to investigate the discount houses, the latest phenomenon in the field of retailing: but its report attached greater importance and permanent significance to the shopping centres.

These should not be confused with the so-called shopping centres of Coventry and Birmingham, or with the one on which building has recently begun in London at the Elephant and Castle. They are really examples of piece-meal urban redevelopment whereas American shopping centres are planned suburban. They are new creations carved literally from soil, located from five to 15 miles from the downtown business district. The American shopping centre sets out to overcome the problem of traffic congestion and car parking; the English centres to which I have referred add to this problem. The American centres count their car park spaces by the thousand. Bergen Mall, New Jersey, which I visited in 1959, has room for 8,400 cars. Mr Cotton's city centre shopping and office development in Birmingham has none.

The building of American shopping centres has preceded or at least accompanied the development of the suburbs to which people have fled at a rapid rate since the war. This contrasts with Wythenshawe where, although small neighbourhood shopping centres were built at the same time as the houses, the principal shopping centre and the civic centre itself are still not completed nearly ten years after the greater part of the housing development has been finished.

America is still a land of open spaces while ours is a tight little island. We are rightly jealous of encroaching on our green belts and there is nowhere near the large industrial centres of population where we can afford to give up acres of land for car parks.

The redevelopment of our urban centres is the most urgent of our problems. The private developer has his part to play but he must conform to an over-all plan. Compulsory purchase powers should be used where necessary to enable comprehensive development of the central commercial district. Parking facilities should not be provided within this confined and expensive area but on the fringe of it with public transport connecting multi-storey car parks with the commercial centre. The twilight residential areas between the town centre and the "posh" suburbs must not be abandoned but be given new life.


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Stephen Clark obituary

In 1966, my father, Stephen Clark, who has died aged 97, was appointed company secretary of C & J Clark, his family's shoe business in Street, Somerset. He remained with Clarks until his retirement in 1975.

Born in Street, Stephen was educated at the Quaker Bootham school in York; Swarthmore College in Pennsylvania; and King's College, Cambridge. Aged 21, he started working for the Avalon Leatherboard Company in Street. The company, which was associated with Clarks, made board for use in insoles. In 1941, he became manager of the company, where he was instrumental in innovations such as Articor, a board consisting of ground-up leather bound with latex. Under his stewardship, the company became profitable after years of loss-making.

Stephen's passion was for preserving historic buildings. In 1962, he bought a house in Somerset named Ston Easton Park in order to prevent it from falling into ruin. He sold it in 1964 to the journalist William Rees-Mogg. With the proceeds he bought Bowlish House, a fine but dilapidated house in Shepton Mallet. He restored it and opened a restaurant there, which still exists.

He also rescued a porch from another historic house which was to be demolished, and re-erected it in a field opposite Bowlingreen Mill in Street, with a fine avenue of walnut trees leading to it. He said his proudest achievement was planting an avenue of poplars along the road leading from the mill to Glastonbury.

In the US, Stephen was elected a trustee of Woodlawn Trustees, founded by his grandfather, William Poole Bancroft, for the preservation of open space for public enjoyment in Wilmington, Delaware, and the vicinity, as well as the provision of affordable rental housing. He was passionately committed to his grandfather's vision and, after retiring from Clarks, served as president of Woodlawn Trustees from 1976 to 1988.

Stephen was a beautiful ice skater and swam regularly in the rivers around Street. He also spent much of his time riding. His brother Nathan, who created the bestselling desert boot, died three weeks after him at the age of 94. Stephen is survived by his wife, Marianna, me and my sisters Lydia and Alice, his son Henry, 11 grandchildren and five great-grandchildren.


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‘I only went in for some bedding…’

Rebecca Hill talks to a professor of architecture about the crafty ways that furniture giants Ikea layout their shops to stimulate impulse buys

"I only went in for some bedding... I came out with two dozen tealights, six wine glasses and a three-piece suite..."

While not everyone's experience of Ikea is as extreme, most shoppers will recognise the sentiment. When I spoke to Alan Penn, professor of architecture at UCL's Bartlett School, he cited an estimate of 60% Ikea impulse purchasing - ie 60% of the stuff rung through the tills at the Scandinavian giant is stuff shoppers didn't know they wanted when they entered the store. And this phenomenon isn't restricted to the blue and yellow Scandinavian giant, we're always making impulse purchases. But why?

A lot is to do with the way shops are laid out – whether that be the areas they're in or the shop floor itself. According to Penn there are three rules of retailing – "location, location, location". For a shop to be a success it needs passing trade and good access.

The right shops need to be in the right place. If you're looking for shoes you don't go to an area full of electrical shops on the off chance there's a Barratts on the corner – you go somewhere with footwear a plenty. The shoe shops are the generators – bringing people in and clustering together to provide choice. Every so often, and somewhere with a lot of passers-by, there's a shop that doesn't fit the pattern ready to take advantage of our fickle shopping nature. These are known as suscipients - they benefit from the customers draw to the area by other shops.

So what about Ikea then? Compare your visit to a trip to the supermarket: would you ever spend the first half hour walking the length and breadth of the store (or is it, in Ikea's case, a maze?) looking at items you don't plan to buy while following a yellow line on the floor? When you reach the marketplace not only are you desperate to shop, you also have an inexplicable urge to buy a set of candlesticks (after all, they looked so nice on that table in the living room scene). Penn says Ikea's confusing layout is designed to disorientate and distract – it forces shoppers to submit to following an arduous path full of subliminal messages and well-placed, unfeasibly cheap products. "I have little doubt that the design to take shoppers past every room setting in the showroom, before they are taken downstairs and led past every product in the 'marketplace' is completely intentional. The sinuous route that results is disorienting and confusing, and leads shoppers to put items in their trolly when they first see them because they cannot be certain that they would find them again."

And the reason we all seem to mindlessly wander along like Disney lemmings? Take a look at the floorplan above. At first glance it appears to be fairly logical - but that is because you are viewing it from above. And therein lies Ikea's trick - they have created a highly confusing environment that is particularly hard to navigate from ground-level. "You can only give in and follow the route they set out for you, because to do anything else is really difficult," explains Penn. "If you want to know where the shortcut is turn around; they are always behind you. Very cunning."

His team's work hasn't just looked at the effects of a well thought out shop floor though, they have also spent time studying the layout of the molecular biology labs in Cambridge, which have produced more Nobel Prize winners than the whole of France. So what makes the lab layout so special? With a lot of open doors and a busy coffee time it appears this is a breeding ground for interaction, discussion and collaboration. "That sort of culture leads to people talking to people they wouldn't speak to otherwise," Penn explains, "we think that's where real innovation comes from." Studying such success stories is part of an ongoing project that will help research laboratories to make the most of their labs, and hopefully increase scientific breakthroughs as well.

Looking at the way architects use space can let us in on all sorts of secrets, whether that be how to promote world-class science or just trying to escape the 'Ikea effect'. But in the meantime, I've just noticed some wine glasses. At that price? Well, I'd better get six then...


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Why pop-ups pop up everywhere

Temporary shops and restaurants were once a way for artists to subvert empty urban spaces. Now, they're just as likely to be part of a corporate marketing strategy

In a dark, dank nightclub beneath some railway arches, with the clatter and chug of trains overhead, I am having a minor Proustian moment. This London club was last open in the late 1990s, and its smell sends me straight back to that era, my student days: to Britpop and Blur, late-teenage clinches, 70p for a vodka and Coke. The aroma is strong, sour, specific, but it won't linger here for very much longer.

Over the last few weeks this long-abandoned club has been taken over by a group of young event organisers for an ambitious, 99-day pop-up project called Counter Culture. The programme will deliver photographers and DJs, comedians and poets, art exhibitions and parties, a different lineup each night, spiriting this sprawling, downtrodden building straight into the 21st century. One of the four organisers, 23-year-old Lee Denny, meets me at the door, apologises for his moustache ("I'm not trying to look cool, I promise") and shows me around the venue he first discovered when he came to an underground party here.

Denny has some experience of pop-ups: five years ago, he started his own small music festival, LeeFest, in his back garden, and he still runs it each summer, albeit from a larger venue. He leads me into the smaller of the club's two main rooms, kitted out with old, over-stuffed sofas and a much more expertly stuffed fox head. The artist responsible for the fox only works with roadkill, says Denny, and he's particularly excited about a live taxidermy workshop she's going to be running.

We move on through a small changing room, where a pair of grubby grey y-fronts hangs from a high ledge, and out to the main stage. On the opening night, in late September, the club filled up with 980 people, "and musicians kept arriving," says Denny, "people who remembered the place, and had heard about what we were doing. There was Jazzie B from Soul II Soul, and Suggs from Madness. He said 'Have you got a trombone?' and then he got up on stage and was like," he holds one hand to his mouth and slides a fist deliberately through the air, "rum-pa-pum-pum-pum."

Counter Culture is just one of thousands of pop-up events that have opened in the UK and beyond over the last few years – ranging from the small to the large, the cool to the rubbish, the sublime to the ridiculous. There have been pop-up shops, restaurants and gardens; pop-up galleries– one in an abandoned Woolworths in Leytonstone – and cinemas – Tilda Swinton even carted one around the Scottish Highlands. There have been pop-up gigs in launderettes; restaurants in front rooms; films projected in disused petrol stations or on to hay bales in fields.

Those are the more guerrilla projects, the grassroots events, often put together on a wing, a prayer and a stiflingly small bank loan. But alongside these are the corporate-backed pop-ups, the temporary shops and bars and restaurants that appear with increasing regularity, often hosted by well-known venues.

The Double Club in London in 2008, a part-Congolese, part-western restaurant and bar backed by fashion label Prada, was particularly successful. A branch of Central Perk, the coffee shop from the TV series Friends, which opened in London's Soho for a fortnight last year, was used to promote a limited-edition box set of the series. In 2006, Nike opened a shop in New York for four days, selling a special edition basketball shoe at $250 a pair. Gap has used a school bus, kitted out with merchandise instead of seats, as a travelling pop-up shop in the US.

There have been pop-up projects that have opened for an hour, like Mary Portas's vintage clothes sale in 2008, and others so successful that they've eventually become a permanent fixture, such as Tom Dixon's Dock Kitchen restaurant in Portobello Dock in west London. But what unites these disparate projects is essentially a strong fascination with the temporary, with the here-today-and-gone-tomorrow, the idea of excitement, urgency and a dynamic interaction with urban (and it is usually urban) spaces. These are projects that stand in opposition to clone towns, to the idea of uniformity and unending drabness.

The debut of pop-up businesses is often traced back to 2004, when Rei Kawakubo of the cutting-edge fashion brand, Comme des Garçons, set up a temporary shop in a disused building in Berlin. Realistically though, while the "pop-up" description might be fairly new, the idea is as old as the hills. The current craze has echoes in everything from the restaurants traditionally run in people's homes in Cuba to the shop that artists Sarah Lucas and Tracey Emin opened in London for six months in 1993, where they made and sold mugs and T-shirts and ashtrays.

The artist Dan Thompson set up his first pop-up gallery with friends in a bakery in Worthing in 2001; he now runs the Empty Shops Network, which advises artists who hope to start projects in one of the country's many disused high-street stores. (It's estimated that 13% of all UK shops are currently empty – and that one in five of those may never be used again.) He says that his inspiration comes from the magical curiosity shops that have appeared for centuries in fiction, "which no one can ever quite find again. I love creating something that's gone so quickly that people say afterwards: 'Was that you? Did that happen?' I love that excitement that you can create in a town, that sense of – what's coming next?"

While these businesses have counter-cultural roots, there's no doubt they've become a corporate concern. As Ali Madanipour, professor of urban design at Newcastle University says, there are two key readings of pop-ups, which aren't mutually exclusive. One is that they can be "a positive way of making more intensive use of urban space," he says, "bringing life to parts of the city that are under-used – they can provide space for local activity, civil-society events, impromptu gatherings. But on the other hand, they can also be an aid to consumerism, in which brands create a stage setting, adding colour and texture to the general mall atmosphere that is the backdrop to many of our urban spaces. Pop-up businesses support shopping – they bring a festival atmosphere to shopping."

The exclusivity of pop-up events means those that are ticketed often sell out extremely quickly. Denny says he now finds it "impossible to get excited about a new place that's opening indefinitely – you think, 'Oh yes, I'll go to that at some point' and you end up there in 20 years. Whereas if it's temporary it's like: 'We've got to do it right now.'"

When pop-ups are hosted by established businesses, this exclusivity and popularity can lead to obvious rewards for both host and brand. Over the last few weeks, the London restaurant Meza has been hosting a MasterChef pop-up, with former contestants from the TV show cooking for diners at a cost of £49 for three courses. When I went there last week, the atmosphere was loud, buzzy, excitable – obviously good for the restaurant, and good publicity for MasterChef. It apparently sold out in 72 hours.

One of the attractions of pop-ups for businesses is that they can act as an informal, unacknowledged market research project. Last week the smoothie maker Innocent ran a pop-up event in London called the Five for Five cafe – offering a two-course meal designed to deliver five portions of fruit and veg for £5. Dan Germain, head of creative at Innocent, said that the event, held in a disused tramshed, was "a no-brainer. Put on a bit of a party for the people who buy the drinks, meet and hang out with them, and find out stuff you wouldn't discover in some weird research group . . . You get all these charts and graphs that say your customer is a certain age, that they live in a certain place, do a certain thing, and then you see the real people. We could just loiter in Sainsbury's by the fridges and watch the people who come and buy our drinks, but we'd probably get kicked out."

Like the MasterChef event, the Innocent cafe sold out quickly, and was cleverly run – the cavernous space was dressed with fairy lights, fruit trees and herbs on every table; there was friendly service, and good food. Any pop-up event this well thought out, prompting this much goodwill, is clearly an excellent piece of marketing.

Germain says a pop-up event is better value for money than running an advertising campaign. "You're getting a more intense return," he says. "Fewer people, yes, but you're hopefully forging relationships that will last a lifetime." Their pop-up event also enabled them to communicate their brand in an incredibly strong, concentrated way. "Everything we want to do was under that roof," he says. Their core message was literally: "up on the back wall, written in big letters: Eat your greens."

Stephen Zatland, a partner at management consultancy Accenture, says that pop-up businesses give retailers other benefits which might not be immediately obvious to the consumer. It's a chance, he says, "to try out a new store location, to see if the kind of people they want to attract will start flocking there before they invest in a permanent site. Manufacturers can try out new products, new services, deliver them direct to the customer, promote a new brand, or try and re-invigorate an older brand".

And they can carry out all this research and promotion for a relatively low price. Zatland says that compared to opening a permanent site, pop-ups are fairly inexpensive. The recession, with its surfeit of empty shops, has played a key role in this trend. "When a lot of Woolworths stores became available, for instance, retailers picked up on those and rented them for a short period to try out something new on the high street."

The pop-up trend has been so big, for so long, that there have been whispers that it must be about to fizzle and die. But Zatland suggests this is unlikely. "There's another interesting trend for a more permanent kind of feature," he says, "where there's a site for maybe eight different pop-up stores, and the content of that site will rotate, change, every eight weeks, or every three weeks. That will be good, I think, because it encourages customers to keep coming back to see what the new feature is."

When I ask Thompson about the corporate fashion for pop-ups, about the way they're being used to flog us more unnecessary stuff, I expect him to be disdainful. But it's quite the opposite. "I love it," he says, "I love the fact that such a daft idea, started by artists, has taken over. I went to a pop-up Gucci put on, and it was fantastic. It's like Quentin Crisp said – don't keep up with the Joneses, drag them down to your level. We've completely subverted all these great brands, who are now having to think differently, more creatively, and that has to be good for our town centres."

There's no doubt that pop-ups can aid regeneration and make a genuine difference. As Thompson points out, "if you live somewhere the size of Worthing or Coventry or Carlisle or Margate, and you lose a few shops, you really notice it. If that's your home town, and you're passionate about it, you'll fight to make it better."

Horton Jupiter (whose real name, he jokes, is "Mystic Rock") is less positive about some aspects of the pop-up phenomenon. He has been running a cafe called The Secret Ingredient from his front room in Newington Green, London, for over a year now, and says he prefers the term "home restaurant", because pop-up has "become something that people use as a marketing tool". He appreciates the temporary, impromptu nature of pop-ups, but projects like his, he suggests, are meant to be precisely an escape from capitalism, from the robot on the end of the phone, towards something more illicit, subversive, personal and warm.

For landlords whose properties have been empty for a while, these events are a great way to promote their building, bring people flooding back in, and perhaps get some free maintenance and decorating work done too. Thompson says he's never "paid anything more than a peppercorn rent – we cover business rates, we cover insurance, and in every shop we've been to we've left it in a better condition than we found it. We'll give it a lick of paint, a clean and tidy. We took a shop in Shoreham-by-Sea, initially for six months, but now for another six, and a place that had been derelict for 10 years has been completely refurbished – which has led to two other derelict shops nearby coming back into use as well."

Where artists go, corporations follow. And so does gentrification, as areas blossom, flourish and improve - and rents subsequently head skywards. Perhaps now, at a time of deep economic anxiety and trouble, we should just enjoy the most exciting of the pop-ups, those that bring life to depressed corners, flowers to abandoned skips, the flicker of film to the hollow beneath an underpass.

There is something slightly sinister about the marketing guile – and rampant consumerism – behind some of these projects, but many are straightforwardly brilliant, and there seems no shortage of people happy to get involved. "Every time I walk past an empty shop or building," says Denny, "I think: I've got to do something in there, I just have to! If I had time, every empty space that was remotely intriguing would be filled."


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Artists’ creative use of vacant shops brings life to desolate high streets

To most, the ring of hammer on nail as shop windows are boarded up on Britain's struggling high streets can only mean unemployment and decline. But for a growing band of optimists, it heralds a golden opportunity.

Artists and curators have begun colonising "slack space" freed up by the recession and are transforming vacant shops into "creative squats", galleries and studios.

Former branches of shops including Woolworths and Carphone Warehouse, as well as independent stores, have been colonised to house community cafes and performance art events and promote the work of local artists.

The slack space movement has echoes in previous slumps when many now successful architects, magazine publishers and artists moved into vacant premises. There is certainly room for creativity again. One in six shops will be vacant by the end of the year, according to the data company Experian. It predicts that 72,000 retail outlets could close during 2009, more than doubling the number of empty units to 135,000 in the UK.

In a struggling 1970s shopping centre in Margate, local artists have been allowed to take over about a dozen recently closed stores that sold everything from computer games to fruit and vegetables.

Justin Mitchell and Emily Firmin, who inherited her craft skills from her father Peter Firmin, the creator of Bagpuss, are planning to open a papier-mache workshop in a disused greengrocer's shop. They will produce works in front of shoppers to brighten up other disused shop fronts.

"We are coating the windows with vinyl in bright seaside colours and there will be an aperture in the middle revealing a box in which will be a model suggesting what a shop could become," said Heather Sawney, arts development director at Thanet district council. "There might be a giant lobster to suggest a fishmonger or a huge muffin suggesting a cake shop. We are trying to stimulate people's imagination because in these tough economic times things can become a bit dreary."

"Rather than letting lots of pound shops appear, we are encouraging people to start up businesses," said Firmin. "We know recessions are awful but can be a good time for artists as creative ideas start appearing while otherwise redundant people are sitting at home fiddling and doing creative stuff."

In Dursley, Gloucestershire, artists have colonised a parade of disused shops where they sell their paintings, photographs and ceramics. The flaking window frames of a closed skateboard shop, photography shop and an upholsterer have been repainted and the displays given over to a rotating gallery of 20 artists.

"This part of Dursley has been run down for a long time so moving in here has been a fantastic thing," said Gillie Harris, a painter and textile artist who is occupying the defunct photography shop. "Those of us involved think it could be repeated across England and Wales where the recession is hitting their market towns."

Karen Hillyard, the project co-ordinator, said: "By showcasing local artists we help the regeneration of the town [and] at the same time give the appearance of productivity. There is nothing more dreary than walking through a town with a desolate feel."

The idea of creative reuse of Britain's high street failures is spreading. Ted Cantle, executive chairman of the Institute of Community Cohesion, which advises the government, has called for the conversion of vacant Woolworths stores across the country into modern market halls, populated by farmers' outlets and local businesses. Cantle said it would return vibrancy to struggling town centres in a downturn that he described as an opportunity to loosen the stranglehold of national and multinational brands.

"I'd like to see more local shops and services operating in the high street so there would be more differentiation, say, between Southampton and Sunderland," he said. "The first occupants could be the local farmers who presently have to contend with all weathers on windswept car parks. They could share refrigeration, storage, cash handling and marketing, gaining a prominent daily foothold in the high street, benefiting from the economies of scale."

The branch of Woolworths in Stroud, Gloucestershire, which closed its doors on 6 January, is about to be turned over to artists after the council gained temporary permission to bring it back to life. The town centre manager, Vicky Hancock, plans to hand over the windows to artists. In Dorchester, Claire Robertson, a former Woolworths manager, has spotted a commercial opportunity and is planning to reopen the store as Wellworths, selling pick 'n' mix sweets, toys, home and kitchen items and textiles. She believes she will turn over £2m a year and hopes it will earn the nickname Wellies.

There are likely to be many opportunities to bring new life to old Woolworths stores. Sources close to the deal to dispose of the 800 shops believe up to 200 may not find a tenant within two years.

Slack space

"Slack space" caused by business closures during recessions has provided a foothold for numerous successful businesses. Neal's Yard Remedies, the cosmetics company which now operates across the US and Japan as well as in the UK was established by Romy Fraser in a disused warehouse in Covent Garden, central London, in 1981.

Three years earlier in Bath at the end of the recession of the mid-1970s, a group of architects moved into a recently closed greengrocer's shop before buying the whole building for just £10,000. The firm, now called Feilden Clegg Bradley Studios, last year won the Stirling prize for the best new building by a British architect.

The Roundhouse in Camden, north London, became a thriving cultural venue in the 1960s and 1970s from the hulk of a disused railway shed, while in Manchester in the early 1980s young entrepreneur Tom Bloxham set up a T-shirt business in Affleck's Palace, a fashion market in a disused building in the city's Northern Quarter. He is now the chairman of Urban Splash, a property development firm which had a £57m turnover in 2007.

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