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Tasmania’s cheekiest devil

Provocative and irreverent, the gambling multimillionaire David Walsh has built a breathtaking art gallery – billed as "subversive Disneyland" – on his vineyard outside Hobart in Tasmania

"Please see reception if you are planning a pool party or a ritualistic orgy." The advice is typical of David Walsh's irreverence. Walsh is the owner of eight designer glass-and-steel guest pavilions and a vineyard outside Hobart, Tasmania. Instead of the "Do not Disturb" sign, guests can hang a "Don't fuck with me" sign on the doorknob.

The luxurious riverfront pavilions, a restaurant and live music events are ways in which Walsh has been attracting visitors to stay on his 3.5-hectare estate, Moorilla, for longer than a swift tasting. He had a museum of antiquities on site for a while, too. Nobody came, he admits. Yet his new idea is to create Australia's largest private art gallery. Sex, death, myth and religion are the central themes and its very air threatens to be thick with ripeness and decay.

Walsh, a mathematics whizz, is probably the state's richest man, having developed a gambling system that successfully and repeatedly beats the house. He's now taking his biggest gamble yet – building a new museum in the bowels of the earth to house his considerable personal art collection. Billed as a "subversive Disneyland", the A$76m (£47m) Museum of Old And New Art (Mona) will open to the public on 21 January just after Mofo, a music festival curated by ex-Violent Femmes bassist and fellow Tassie resident, Brian Ritchie.

One of the stand-out exhibits will be a piece by Jannis Kounellis (Untitled) featuring rotting sides of beef which will be fed into the artificial digestion tract of Cloaca, a separate work by Wim Delvoye. Cloaca is a machine that reproduces, with gross exactitude, excrement. Handily, you will be able to fortify yourself for the assault on the senses beforehand at the museum's underground bar.

Walsh, 49, is an old rocker in a T-shirt, jeans and shades, who was raised by his mum in a council house on the other side of Mount Wellington, the peak that dominates the colonial port. He dropped out of university, but has since built up a successful winery, brewery and tourism business – as well as a A$100m art collection.

Moorilla is on a private peninsula in the Derwent River, 15 minutes outside Hobart. It was originally established by Italian immigrant Claudio Alcorso in 1958. Walsh used to look at the place from his old house across the water and, in the 1990s, he acquired it along with the riesling, gewürztraminer, chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet wines it produces. He's since added Moo Brew beer and fine dining at the Source. But Mona – his "unmuseum" – is central to Walsh's vision.

The museum has been created by excavating a giant hole in the sandstone bluffs of Moorilla. From above, it is barely there – its entrance is via a shaft cut into a floor of a remodelled heritage villa on the cliff top. But approaching from the water it looks formidable – a fortress with impenetrable bunkers of sandstone-coloured waffled concrete and panels of rusted steel. There's nothing bijou about it – Mona is similar in size to both Queensland's and South Australia's state art galleries.

Walsh hopes a good chunk of Tasmania's 910,000 annual visitors will make a pilgrimage to his temple to secularism. The best way to arrive will be up the River Derwent from central Hobart on the new rivercat service, docking at the foot of a flight of stairs cut into the cliff. If it feels like arriving on a Greek island, that's deliberate – Naxos was the model. You ascend to this antipodean acropolis, negotiating a children's playground, a Sunday market and walk across a tennis court before reaching the museum entrance – Walsh's aim is to challenge ideas about what great museums should be like right from the outset.

Australia can be a very conservative place, but Tasmania's cheap living and craft traditions have made it an attractive home to artists and other nonconformist downsizers from the mainland. The island state is reinventing itself from a place dedicated to shredding old-growth forests for paper into somewhere that cherishes its pure, natural beauty. Once-shameful convict-period prisons have been declared Unesco world heritage sites, and luxury eco-lodges seem to open each year.

After you have climbed the steps to the villa entrance, you descend again to a subterranean canyon. From here, Walsh's architect, Nonda Katsalidis, has built three gallery floors extending out of a rock face. The ceiling, a grid of concrete coffers (deep recesses), reads like a brutal take on classicism. Concrete piles driven into the living rock are dripping caryatids. A rusted-steel staircase snakes between floors.

Moving through the windowless voids is deliberately bewildering. A personal audio device is both the only guide to the art and a way for Mona to track you – it can tell how long you stand in front of each work. Walsh thinks he will swap around the 10 most popular and least popular pieces each week.

A circular tunnel leads under the foundations of a second historic house to a separate pavilion built to house Sternenfall, Anselm Kiefer's 6.5m-high stack of lead books.

The collection combines Walsh's antiquities (he has ancient coins worth more than any of his paintings) with Australian and international contemporary works and he is happiest creating dialogues between the periods – Egyptian mummies will be on nodding terms with YBAs.

One gallery is especially devoted to sex and death, with a bordello-red velvet curtain and peep holes to objects through a gold-leaf wall. If the virtually-all-glass guest pavilions are about exhibitionism, this is about voyeurism. "It's the opportunity to mess with your head," admits Walsh, as is the gallery bar: "I like the idea of people having a couple of beers and looking at the art, having a couple more and changing their mind."

Mona's labyrinth is rich with myth and mortality. Even in the roomy cinema, a Christian cross of black seats is set out among the red. There are artworks like Julius Popp's Bit Fall, a delicate waterfall where words appear digitally in the tumbling raindrops. Then there's serenity in Wilfredo Prieto's Untitled (White Library), where a gallery is entirely lined with thousands of white books. Every page is blank. It's one of David Walsh's favourite pieces.

Walsh reckons Mona might outdo the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra in terms of visitor numbers but he adds, not entirely convincingly, he's not bothered if visitors don't come at all. That's not the point, he says. "It's fun to make a big, complex, elaborate joke – it's about subversion, but it's not too serious. It is a counterpoint to the Met and Moma. I'm not trying to bestow wisdom. It is just me doing stuff." He also says he doesn't care if rising sea levels drown his temple to secularism in decades to come.

That's not convincing either, of course: Walsh is keen to raise hell and debate and to show how art can reveal what we try to hide about ourselves. He's planning more architecture – a warehouse gallery in Hobart's docks and more accommodation at Moorilla itself, taking his spend on the estate to A$100m: "Eventually I want to build a hotel and make it a cohesive whole. Everything is a function of Mona: Moo Brew, the pavilions, the function centre. I'd like the hotel entrance to be via a shaft through the rock from the waterfront. But I need a lot of people to come first."

Those with sensory overload can retreat from Mona to the guest pavilions with their sybaritic bathrooms and the peaceful prospect of the wide Derwent and the hills beyond. But even here, there's no escaping Walsh's obsessions entirely. Beneath original artworks ancient and modern, and the giant photo-murals of naked couples making out, you can browse books such as Blasphemy: Art that Offends while grazing on dishes whose ingredients include abalone, periwinkle and smoked oyster oil.

On the floor of one pavilion is a large black rug on which writing, picked out in red, reads: "Apropos of nothing, it's nice to have you here. Thanks, we need the money."

Essentials

Mona opens to the public on 21 January. The boat service to Moorilla begins on 23 January, and costs A$15 return from Brooke Street pier on Hobart waterfront. There is limited on-site parking, but people with disabilities can arrange this by calling +61 3 6277 9900.

Mona's guest-pavilion rates range from A$490 to A$950 per night, including breakfast in the Source restaurant or in your pavilion. Entry to Mona is free (mona.net.au). Qantas (qantas.com) flies daily from London Heathrow to Hobart via Melbourne from £960 including all taxes and surcharges. Valid for departure 16 April - 20 June 2011


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Why pop-ups pop up everywhere

Temporary shops and restaurants were once a way for artists to subvert empty urban spaces. Now, they're just as likely to be part of a corporate marketing strategy

In a dark, dank nightclub beneath some railway arches, with the clatter and chug of trains overhead, I am having a minor Proustian moment. This London club was last open in the late 1990s, and its smell sends me straight back to that era, my student days: to Britpop and Blur, late-teenage clinches, 70p for a vodka and Coke. The aroma is strong, sour, specific, but it won't linger here for very much longer.

Over the last few weeks this long-abandoned club has been taken over by a group of young event organisers for an ambitious, 99-day pop-up project called Counter Culture. The programme will deliver photographers and DJs, comedians and poets, art exhibitions and parties, a different lineup each night, spiriting this sprawling, downtrodden building straight into the 21st century. One of the four organisers, 23-year-old Lee Denny, meets me at the door, apologises for his moustache ("I'm not trying to look cool, I promise") and shows me around the venue he first discovered when he came to an underground party here.

Denny has some experience of pop-ups: five years ago, he started his own small music festival, LeeFest, in his back garden, and he still runs it each summer, albeit from a larger venue. He leads me into the smaller of the club's two main rooms, kitted out with old, over-stuffed sofas and a much more expertly stuffed fox head. The artist responsible for the fox only works with roadkill, says Denny, and he's particularly excited about a live taxidermy workshop she's going to be running.

We move on through a small changing room, where a pair of grubby grey y-fronts hangs from a high ledge, and out to the main stage. On the opening night, in late September, the club filled up with 980 people, "and musicians kept arriving," says Denny, "people who remembered the place, and had heard about what we were doing. There was Jazzie B from Soul II Soul, and Suggs from Madness. He said 'Have you got a trombone?' and then he got up on stage and was like," he holds one hand to his mouth and slides a fist deliberately through the air, "rum-pa-pum-pum-pum."

Counter Culture is just one of thousands of pop-up events that have opened in the UK and beyond over the last few years – ranging from the small to the large, the cool to the rubbish, the sublime to the ridiculous. There have been pop-up shops, restaurants and gardens; pop-up galleries– one in an abandoned Woolworths in Leytonstone – and cinemas – Tilda Swinton even carted one around the Scottish Highlands. There have been pop-up gigs in launderettes; restaurants in front rooms; films projected in disused petrol stations or on to hay bales in fields.

Those are the more guerrilla projects, the grassroots events, often put together on a wing, a prayer and a stiflingly small bank loan. But alongside these are the corporate-backed pop-ups, the temporary shops and bars and restaurants that appear with increasing regularity, often hosted by well-known venues.

The Double Club in London in 2008, a part-Congolese, part-western restaurant and bar backed by fashion label Prada, was particularly successful. A branch of Central Perk, the coffee shop from the TV series Friends, which opened in London's Soho for a fortnight last year, was used to promote a limited-edition box set of the series. In 2006, Nike opened a shop in New York for four days, selling a special edition basketball shoe at $250 a pair. Gap has used a school bus, kitted out with merchandise instead of seats, as a travelling pop-up shop in the US.

There have been pop-up projects that have opened for an hour, like Mary Portas's vintage clothes sale in 2008, and others so successful that they've eventually become a permanent fixture, such as Tom Dixon's Dock Kitchen restaurant in Portobello Dock in west London. But what unites these disparate projects is essentially a strong fascination with the temporary, with the here-today-and-gone-tomorrow, the idea of excitement, urgency and a dynamic interaction with urban (and it is usually urban) spaces. These are projects that stand in opposition to clone towns, to the idea of uniformity and unending drabness.

The debut of pop-up businesses is often traced back to 2004, when Rei Kawakubo of the cutting-edge fashion brand, Comme des Garçons, set up a temporary shop in a disused building in Berlin. Realistically though, while the "pop-up" description might be fairly new, the idea is as old as the hills. The current craze has echoes in everything from the restaurants traditionally run in people's homes in Cuba to the shop that artists Sarah Lucas and Tracey Emin opened in London for six months in 1993, where they made and sold mugs and T-shirts and ashtrays.

The artist Dan Thompson set up his first pop-up gallery with friends in a bakery in Worthing in 2001; he now runs the Empty Shops Network, which advises artists who hope to start projects in one of the country's many disused high-street stores. (It's estimated that 13% of all UK shops are currently empty – and that one in five of those may never be used again.) He says that his inspiration comes from the magical curiosity shops that have appeared for centuries in fiction, "which no one can ever quite find again. I love creating something that's gone so quickly that people say afterwards: 'Was that you? Did that happen?' I love that excitement that you can create in a town, that sense of – what's coming next?"

While these businesses have counter-cultural roots, there's no doubt they've become a corporate concern. As Ali Madanipour, professor of urban design at Newcastle University says, there are two key readings of pop-ups, which aren't mutually exclusive. One is that they can be "a positive way of making more intensive use of urban space," he says, "bringing life to parts of the city that are under-used – they can provide space for local activity, civil-society events, impromptu gatherings. But on the other hand, they can also be an aid to consumerism, in which brands create a stage setting, adding colour and texture to the general mall atmosphere that is the backdrop to many of our urban spaces. Pop-up businesses support shopping – they bring a festival atmosphere to shopping."

The exclusivity of pop-up events means those that are ticketed often sell out extremely quickly. Denny says he now finds it "impossible to get excited about a new place that's opening indefinitely – you think, 'Oh yes, I'll go to that at some point' and you end up there in 20 years. Whereas if it's temporary it's like: 'We've got to do it right now.'"

When pop-ups are hosted by established businesses, this exclusivity and popularity can lead to obvious rewards for both host and brand. Over the last few weeks, the London restaurant Meza has been hosting a MasterChef pop-up, with former contestants from the TV show cooking for diners at a cost of £49 for three courses. When I went there last week, the atmosphere was loud, buzzy, excitable – obviously good for the restaurant, and good publicity for MasterChef. It apparently sold out in 72 hours.

One of the attractions of pop-ups for businesses is that they can act as an informal, unacknowledged market research project. Last week the smoothie maker Innocent ran a pop-up event in London called the Five for Five cafe – offering a two-course meal designed to deliver five portions of fruit and veg for £5. Dan Germain, head of creative at Innocent, said that the event, held in a disused tramshed, was "a no-brainer. Put on a bit of a party for the people who buy the drinks, meet and hang out with them, and find out stuff you wouldn't discover in some weird research group . . . You get all these charts and graphs that say your customer is a certain age, that they live in a certain place, do a certain thing, and then you see the real people. We could just loiter in Sainsbury's by the fridges and watch the people who come and buy our drinks, but we'd probably get kicked out."

Like the MasterChef event, the Innocent cafe sold out quickly, and was cleverly run – the cavernous space was dressed with fairy lights, fruit trees and herbs on every table; there was friendly service, and good food. Any pop-up event this well thought out, prompting this much goodwill, is clearly an excellent piece of marketing.

Germain says a pop-up event is better value for money than running an advertising campaign. "You're getting a more intense return," he says. "Fewer people, yes, but you're hopefully forging relationships that will last a lifetime." Their pop-up event also enabled them to communicate their brand in an incredibly strong, concentrated way. "Everything we want to do was under that roof," he says. Their core message was literally: "up on the back wall, written in big letters: Eat your greens."

Stephen Zatland, a partner at management consultancy Accenture, says that pop-up businesses give retailers other benefits which might not be immediately obvious to the consumer. It's a chance, he says, "to try out a new store location, to see if the kind of people they want to attract will start flocking there before they invest in a permanent site. Manufacturers can try out new products, new services, deliver them direct to the customer, promote a new brand, or try and re-invigorate an older brand".

And they can carry out all this research and promotion for a relatively low price. Zatland says that compared to opening a permanent site, pop-ups are fairly inexpensive. The recession, with its surfeit of empty shops, has played a key role in this trend. "When a lot of Woolworths stores became available, for instance, retailers picked up on those and rented them for a short period to try out something new on the high street."

The pop-up trend has been so big, for so long, that there have been whispers that it must be about to fizzle and die. But Zatland suggests this is unlikely. "There's another interesting trend for a more permanent kind of feature," he says, "where there's a site for maybe eight different pop-up stores, and the content of that site will rotate, change, every eight weeks, or every three weeks. That will be good, I think, because it encourages customers to keep coming back to see what the new feature is."

When I ask Thompson about the corporate fashion for pop-ups, about the way they're being used to flog us more unnecessary stuff, I expect him to be disdainful. But it's quite the opposite. "I love it," he says, "I love the fact that such a daft idea, started by artists, has taken over. I went to a pop-up Gucci put on, and it was fantastic. It's like Quentin Crisp said – don't keep up with the Joneses, drag them down to your level. We've completely subverted all these great brands, who are now having to think differently, more creatively, and that has to be good for our town centres."

There's no doubt that pop-ups can aid regeneration and make a genuine difference. As Thompson points out, "if you live somewhere the size of Worthing or Coventry or Carlisle or Margate, and you lose a few shops, you really notice it. If that's your home town, and you're passionate about it, you'll fight to make it better."

Horton Jupiter (whose real name, he jokes, is "Mystic Rock") is less positive about some aspects of the pop-up phenomenon. He has been running a cafe called The Secret Ingredient from his front room in Newington Green, London, for over a year now, and says he prefers the term "home restaurant", because pop-up has "become something that people use as a marketing tool". He appreciates the temporary, impromptu nature of pop-ups, but projects like his, he suggests, are meant to be precisely an escape from capitalism, from the robot on the end of the phone, towards something more illicit, subversive, personal and warm.

For landlords whose properties have been empty for a while, these events are a great way to promote their building, bring people flooding back in, and perhaps get some free maintenance and decorating work done too. Thompson says he's never "paid anything more than a peppercorn rent – we cover business rates, we cover insurance, and in every shop we've been to we've left it in a better condition than we found it. We'll give it a lick of paint, a clean and tidy. We took a shop in Shoreham-by-Sea, initially for six months, but now for another six, and a place that had been derelict for 10 years has been completely refurbished – which has led to two other derelict shops nearby coming back into use as well."

Where artists go, corporations follow. And so does gentrification, as areas blossom, flourish and improve - and rents subsequently head skywards. Perhaps now, at a time of deep economic anxiety and trouble, we should just enjoy the most exciting of the pop-ups, those that bring life to depressed corners, flowers to abandoned skips, the flicker of film to the hollow beneath an underpass.

There is something slightly sinister about the marketing guile – and rampant consumerism – behind some of these projects, but many are straightforwardly brilliant, and there seems no shortage of people happy to get involved. "Every time I walk past an empty shop or building," says Denny, "I think: I've got to do something in there, I just have to! If I had time, every empty space that was remotely intriguing would be filled."


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Interiors: Style council

The 1960s ex-council flat that's a shrine to 20th-century vintage

Kitchen "A carpenter friend made the kitchen using reclaimed wood, tea crates and fruit boxes," says Jane Petrie, a costume designer and co-owner of design store Shelf. "It's painted Sage Green (from the Little Greene Paint Company and the vinyl floor tiles are Cayenne from Tarkett – it's close to what would have been laid when the flats were built (Vylon Plus tiles, £6.99 a sq m). I made the blind with a kit from John Lewis and some vintage fabric found on sheilacook.co.uk." For similar, try Pottery fabric by Stig Lindberg, from retrohome.se, or Dandelion Clocks roller blind, from John Lewis (from £37). The chairs are from Castle Gibson and the table from Muji. The black pendant light is from MarMarCo and the red pendant from a Swedish charity shop. The 1970s bike light on the wall is from Atomic Antiques .

Kitchen shelf "The ceramic jars are vintage Portmeirion – try charity shops, or the Bucket Tree. I discovered the vintage Tupperware measuring cups and rack at a car boot sale (try US eBay). My spice jars are glass jars from an art shop (£1.13 each): I stuck the lids to the underside of the cupboard with No More Nails."

Sitting room "I bought the sofa for £50 off the film set of Is Anybody There? and the rocking chair is a long-term loan from a friend. The parquet flooring was here when I moved in 10 years ago, but it's not original." Find reclaimed parquet at salvage shops such as Lassco, from £35 a sq m. For a similar sofa, try Ercol's Studio Couch, or scour antiques markets such as the one at Kempton racecourse."

Hatch "This wasn't there when we moved in, but we wanted to open the place up so we got a builder in. I found the tree trunk lamp in a concession in Liberty about six years ago. The red bird and lion are vintage Swedish (try retrohome.se for similar). The alien-shaped object is a children's ceramic moneybox: SCP does great Moomin moneyboxes for kids."

Front door "The door and furniture are the original fittings. It's painted in Thundercloud from Sanderson (ref 44-12D, £16 a litre,). The letters are from Shelf; periodfeatures.net sells similar enamel numbers."


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Boris Johnson’s London Cycle Hire scheme flogs our birthright to Barclays

The mayor's deal has smothered London's public spaces with what may be the largest piece of corporate branding in existence

London's long-awaited cycle-hire scheme is launched this week. While there's no doubt it's a valuable addition to the capital's public transport options, it strikes yet another blow to the idea of London as a dignified city. First of all, there's the name. Paris has the Velib, Montreal has the Bixi; what does London get? Barclays Cycle Hire. Clearly the good people at Barclays marketing thought long and hard about that one.

Maybe it's not worth getting too wound up about the name – selling the rights to popular institutions is unlikely to make anyone who watches, say, the Barclays Premier League or the Npower Championship even blink. What is new, however, is the prospect of more than a hundred kilometres of the capital's road surface being branded with corporate livery. The city's new dedicated cycle lanes – two of which recently opened, with another ten to come before the Olympics – are called "Barclays Cycle Superhighways" and painted Barclays blue.

London can now claim the dubious honour of hosting what is surely the largest piece of corporate branding in existence. It's not just the scale, the mind-blowing square footage, that is shocking about this – it's the principle. We're not talking about some supersized billboard here: we're talking about the mayor selling off the very road beneath our wheels – one of the few parts of a city that counts indisputably as public space. Whether they realise it or not, whether or not they even care, from now on thousands of cyclists are doomed to commute on a giant Barclays ad.

The sponsorship deal, worth £25m, has been presented as a coup for Boris Johnson. It has enabled him to recover some of the £140m Transport for London spent on the cycle-hire scheme and has even been presented as "payback" for the mayor's support of the banks during the credit crunch. Surely, however, £25m is a small price to pay for such an invasive piece of branding? If a city of the global stature of London can't afford to provide rental bikes without turning its urban fabric into a massive endorsement, we're in trouble.

There is something, too, in the gibes suggesting this is not just Barclays blue but Tory blue. Neither New Labour nor former mayor Ken Livingstone did anything to prevent the growing privatisation of the city, but it is hard to imagine Livingstone selling off a chunk of the public realm in such brazen fashion. Johnson seemingly lacks any sensitivity to the ethical or aesthetic side-effects of his deal-making – this is, after all, the man who condemned the Stratford Olympics site to a hideous 115m-high sculpture – precisely the kind of vainglorious ego trip the Olympics can do without – based on a 45-second chat with Britain's richest man in the cloakroom at Davos. We must be careful not to assume a loss of innocence; private ownership and interests have held sway in this city for centuries, and often cooperation between private and public bodies is the best way to meet the city's needs. However, the public realm that the Victorians handed over to municipal authorities to manage in the public good – including streets and pavements, squares, and infrastructure such as transport and sewage networks – has been under steady assault since the privatisation of the Thatcher years.

A decade ago, Naomi Klein argued in her book No Logo that we had reached a point where it seemed nothing could happen anymore without a corporate sponsor. The inevitable upshot of their growing social power was that brands wanted an expanded visual presence. T-shirt logos and media advertisements were no longer enough: branding had to be a fully immersive experience. As the superhighways prove, there is no amount of space a brand will not happily fill, with public bodies all too willing to hand it over. TfL is becoming ever more imaginative about the bits of Tube stations it will sell off to advertisers – including, now, the space between escalators and the gates of the exit barriers. Every year the Regent Street Christmas lights, once a public gesture organised by the Regent Street Association, turn a major thoroughfare into a 3D advert for some fashion label or blockbuster movie.

Increasingly entire pieces of London have become brands in their own right, a process that began in the 1980s with the privately owned Canary Wharf development. Since then, so-called "business improvement districts" have been popping up all over the capital under the banner of regeneration: Broadgate in the City, Paddington Basin, Kings Cross Central, the new Spitalfields Market, the More London development near Tower Bridge. It's a national phenomenon, too, exemplified by "malls without walls" such as Liverpool ONE or Brindleyplace in Birmingham. They might look like other parts of the city, but they are very different. Stroll through Broadgate and you'll notice the logo of developer British Land studding the pavements. These are privately owned developments, policed by private security guards who can throw you out for the slightest misdemeanour or – if you happen to be sleeping rough, say – simply for disrupting the projection of affluence. In the case of More London – a series of sterile glass blocks set amid some rather uptight landscaping on the South Bank – the very name is a deliberate deception. The developers are trying to claim this is just an ordinary piece of the city. Don't believe it.

Anyone who wants to find out more about the insidious privatisation of British cities should read Anna Minton's latest book, Ground Control. The point is that we are in danger or running out of unbranded space. Though it may seem innocuous, the branding of cycle lanes sets an all-too-exploitable precedent. As citizens we have a communal birthright, which includes the public realm. Our representatives are supposed to protect that – not sell it off to corporations who are neither responsible nor accountable for the spaces of which they claim symbolic ownership. Politicians seem only too ready to turn our cities into horizontal billboards. If we're not vigilant, the urban landscape is going to become a brandscape.


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Interiors: My own private hidey hole

It's every dad's fantasy: a state-of-the-art studio at the bottom of the garden. John Crace explores one man's masterpiece

Is it a shed or is it a studio? "Good question," smiles artist Jaspar Joseph-Lester, sizing up the black, asymmetrical, cantilevered structure in the back garden of his east London semi. "I'm not sure. Some friends refer to it as the shed; I guess I'd rather call it my studio work space. But on more than one occasion during the winter, when there was no greenery to soften the design, it was described as a nuclear bunker."

Whatever it is, it's striking. With half the building below ground and with no two walls or windows the same, it's even bigger than it first appears. "The architects [the Latis Group] and I wanted to create a structure that maximised the work space while minimising the footprint, so it made sense to dig out the garden. But we also wanted a design that disorientated people, so you couldn't necessarily tell what was happening on the inside from the outside."

Compromise also played its part. The neighbours on both sides had been reasonably accommodating in the planning process – not least because they, too, had either already built a studio or were thinking about doing so. "There was – how shall I put it? – a certain synergy," he laughs. "No one raised any objections and they both claim to love the design." The real obstacle was Joseph-Lester's partner.

The studio was always planned as his work space, both for creating video installations and for writing, so his partner, film editor Mopsa Wolff, didn't get too much say in its design. "She didn't mind me using the dead space at the end of the garden," he says, "but she insisted both the fig trees had to stay. And that's really how the cantilevered upper storey came about, as you can't build within a certain distance of a tree because of the roots."

The project took about two years and went about £10K over the £20K budget, but Joseph-Lester reckons he still created a lot of space comparatively cheaply. So has it all worked out as intended? "The stairwell down to the door is steeper than we expected, so we'll probably have to put a grate over it to stop the kids falling down," he says. "And it sticks out a couple of feet further into the garden than we thought. You'd be amazed how important 2ft of garden can be in a relationship."

Inside the studio, things haven't entirely worked out either. "You can never be sure how you're going to use a building until you move in, and I'd imagined I'd use the upper floor for thinking and designing, and the ground floor for making things. But I enjoy the ground floor more, so that's where I spend most of my time. And although the building was deliberately designed without phone or internet access, they've somehow made their way in."

There are also unexpected pleasures, such as the worm's-eye view of the garden from the basement-level window, but the interior still looks unfinished. Again that's part accident, part design. "I always wanted the walls to be blank so I could use them as a projection screen, but there's still a load of snagging to do. I'm beginning to wonder if I'll ever get round to it. I haven't a clue what to do with the floor, so I might just leave it as concrete."

And how does he imagine the building in 10 years' time? "Almost certainly as a place that has been taken over by teenage children, from which I will be banned."


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Hancox: All under one roof

Five generations of Charlotte Moore's family have lived in the same house, crammed with old papers and possessions. Now her sons are adding to the clutter ...

'Is there anyone in the last 200 years of our family history who hasn't been touched by at least one of the following: madness/brilliance/disease/early death/adultery/eccentricity/ornithology?" asked my brother Rowan in a recent email. He and I, and our elder brother Charles, spent our formative years in the shadowy company of our dead relations. We grew up at Hancox, the Tudor house where my sons and I live today. It has been in the family since 1888; continuous ownership, a strong instinct for preservation and lack of money for home "improvements" has turned it into a timewarp.

As children, we took for granted the family portraits looking down on us, the drifts of Victorian letters, the battered lead toys we played with. If any of us needed something – a science overall, riding boots, a tent – the response was not to buy it, but to open a cupboard and dig one out. Sometimes, I yearned for new things. But on the whole I liked living with the past, and I still do.

The walls of the bedroom that my brothers and I shared bore evidence of earlier occupants in the form of drawings and scribbled messages, and we added graffiti of our own. Drawing on walls is a family habit. In my son Sam's bedroom, a frieze of waterbirds survives, chalked there by my great-uncle Gillachrist in his sunny Edwardian boyhood, a few years before the first world war abruptly ended his life.

Our daily handling of the things that had belonged to three earlier generations made our dead forebears real to us. We read their books, we dressed up in their clothes, we used spoons with their names engraved on them. Our genetic inheritance of certain characteristics was reinforced by the shared environment; they had shaped the place, but equally the place had shaped them, and us. And the effect continues. I asked my 12-year-old, Jake, what he liked about living here. He said he liked the labels, peeled off our Sunday bottle of wine and pasted on to his bedroom door by his Uncle Charles in the early 70s. "They're funny," he said. "I like the history. I like the bells to call the servants, and the fact that there aren't any servants to call."

Hancox is a timber-framed hall house. Since the 1480s, each successive century has seen the addition or subtraction of a floor, a wing, a chimney, a rendering. The result is a living history of local vernacular, hopelessly incoherent or charmingly jumbled, depending on your taste. I, of course, love the warps, the wiggles, the absence of symmetry. The building materials – the rosy bricks, the russet hanging tiles, the massive oak beams, even the iron for hinges and latches – would have come from within a five-mile radius, which is why the house feels like a natural outcrop of the hummocky Sussex Wealden landscape in which it sits.

I'd always known that the first family member to live here was Milicent Ludlow, a cousin, who later became my great-grandfather's second wife. (His first wife, Amy, was Milicent's first cousin.) I'd grown up with an image of Milicent as a comically intransigent old lady in a wide-brimmed hat who knocked down a policeman in her car (she never mastered gear changes) and enquired: "What are you doing down there, my good man?" It only dawned on me relatively recently that when Milicent moved into Hancox she was only 20, and single. What made this Victorian orphan, who had inherited her parents' money, not only take on a large and ramshackle house but set about enlarging it still further, remodelling the gardens, and – most surprising of all – appoint herself as manager of its farm?

I decided to find out more. I'm a professional writer, but I'm also the mother of three sons, two of them autistic. I had written a book, George and Sam, about living with autism. Gathering the material for that was easy – it was the fabric of my life. I had done a little investigation into family history, to help explain where my sons came from. That whetted my appetite and I decided to write about Hancox. George and Sam's needs limit my opportunities for far-flung exploration and adventure, but I realised I had all the materials at hand to make a journey of a different kind, a journey into the world of the people who had once lived under the same roof.

All families are interesting. Every human life is potentially full of drama. What's different in our case is that so much of the evidence survives. My family have a reverence for the written word; we find it difficult to throw away anything with handwriting on it. Some old letters, chewed by mice, have been preserved in plastic bags, in the hope that one day someone will feel up to tackling these complicated and fragile jigsaws. We also tend to endow inanimate objects with human qualities, which makes them hard to dispose of. Under a pile of mothy tea-cosies I found a pair of secateurs returned from the ironmongers with a brown label attached, dated 1956 and inscribed "Not Worth Repair". I attribute their survival to a hopeful feeling that someone, some day, might know how to mend them, combined with a sense of loyalty towards the dear old secateurs, which had worked so hard.

Another trait is a disregard for physical comfort and a reduced awareness of how things might look to outsiders. A lumpy horse-hair mattress, a rattling, leaky window, a wonky table propped up with a couple of books – such things are tolerated, even enjoyed. Old shoeboxes crammed with letters, dusty rows of battered notebooks, trunks full of unsorted personal documents – these do not offend our visual sense, any more than do handle-less saucepans or rust stains on old sheets or doorhandles tied on with bits of string.

I discovered that not only am I surrounded by the things my ancestors used and loved, but also that I had access to their thoughts, their feelings, their turns of phrase. In every drawer, on every shelf, there are letters, diaries, sketchbooks, photographs, household bills, school reports, exercise books, children's drawings. As I investigated, the lives of the long dead flared into vivid reality. We had, of course, grown up with a fund of family anecdotes. I knew about Uncle Ben the explorer who survived a shipwrecked Arctic winter by eating polar bears, Aunt Barbara the copper-haired feminist whose husband would spring naked out of the rhododendrons and frighten the maids, beautiful Amy who died of tuberculosis, my great-grandfather Norman who would walk 50 miles at a stretch with his hawk on his wrist. These characters had played an active part in my childhood imaginings. Now, I discovered how all the stories linked together. The narrative that emerged from the cobwebs was a remarkably coherent one, a detailed panorama of Victorian and Edwardian family life, full of humour and bathos as well as drama, passion and tragedy.

My project was, necessarily, intrusive. Reading personal documents inevitably exposes things that the writer would rather not have made public. Describing the behaviour of people who are not here to explain themselves is bound to be unfair. I can only justify it by pointing out that people are free to destroy their letters and diaries; if they don't, one day they will be read. The characters I have attempted to re-animate are long dead. I soon realised that to carry the narrative into the realm of living memory would be wrong.

When I came to put it all together, I sat at my bedroom window and thought about what my great-grandparents would notice if they could see it now. The view encompasses about half the garden and some of the farm. The great cathedral of a barn, the coach house, the stable, the brewhouse, the dairy – all are still in place, though the coach house shelters lawnmowers, not carriages, the hunters are long gone from the stable, and the brewhouse will never again be used for making beer. The farm, intensely cultivated 100 years ago with a different crop in every field, employed seven men; now two part-timers use it for sheep and bullocks. My great-grandparents would be dismayed by the dereliction of what was once the kitchen garden, where our pigs now rootle under the few survivors of Milicent's dozens of espaliered fruit trees, but they would, I hope, be reassured by the survival of some of the plants they put in, gifts of their friend Ellen Willmott, the great Edwardian gardener. The yew topiary, the drifts of narcissi, the berberis darwiniae, the clumps of brilliant orange monbretia, all thrive.

This view, like every aspect of the place, is rich in memories for me. As I look at it now, I think of Sam, running along the tops of the Tudor walls and never faltering, of George pulling bees out of the lavender bushes to examine them and never getting stung, of Jake and his friends trundling by, piled on to a mobility scooter they had found somewhere. Further back in time, I think of making "nests" with Rowan in the soft warm grass clippings in the immense wheelbarrow, of racing our hobby horses up and down the lawn, of making dens out of piles of furniture dragged out of the house. I remember my mother's horror when I ate the lords-and-ladies berries that still grow by the garden walls.

I look at the wobbly brick paths and remember the hard winter of 1963 – a very small child, I ran along these paths while Charles shot at me with his toy pistol, banks of shovelled snow towering above our heads. I can recall the deliciousness of the stale crusts lying in the sun on these same paths, thrown out for the hens but picked up by me. I remember Rowan falling on to a jagged baked bean can dropped by the dustman on the path, and rather envying him the drama of the dash to the hospital and the impressive bandage. Rowan toppled backwards over the parapet wall by the boiler house – we were always told not to sit on that wall – and there was another drama; had he broken his collar bone? Years later, nine-year-old Sam wrenched the bricks out of the paths and threw them over this parapet wall. My cousin Tom lovingly and painstakingly pieced them back together, and Sam moved on to pulling tiles off the lean-to roof.

Now this view is also animated by scenes I never saw, people I never met, almost as clearly as my real memories. My grandfather teetering along on his pennyfarthing, Milicent playing tennis in her immense "picture hat", my great-grandfather's "butterfly bed", the teak seat where he sat star-gazing with Milicent's best friend, who was also his mistress; doomed Gillachrist and his girl cousins dancing to a gramophone on the lawn in the summer of 1914 ... I feel I'm living not so much in the past as in parallel with the past.

Jake, I notice, has inherited the family tendency to hang on to things. Among his treasures is an unusually shaped toenail clipping (his own), taped to a piece of cardboard and labelled and dated for the benefit of posterity. At one time it was difficult to get him to throw even a sweet wrapper away. He loves stories about his ancestors, just as I did. George and Sam, though, have no historical sense; they live for the moment. However, though they don't know it, they too share experiences with the dead. They have grown up with the same sounds, smells, sights, textures. The scents of woodsmoke and leatherbound books, the particular creak of hinges and floorboards, the scuffle of starlings under the hanging tiles, the way low-lying winter sun seems to set fire to the dining-room panelling – they know all the small sensory details that have been familiar to five generations.

At one time, the sense of continuity I experience would have been commonplace. Now, it's unusual. Very few people live in the house where they grew up. Many, I imagine, would shudder at the idea. The urge to start afresh, to arrange things just the way you want them, to redecorate without reference to the feelings of the living or the dead – I can understand all that. Living the way I do has its own responsibilities and limitations. If I didn't have the taste for it, it would be nothing but a drag. But for me Thomas Hardy's poem Old Furniture, with its sympathy for "each shiny familiar thing", its vision of "hands behind hands" fingering the furniture, makes perfect sense:

"I know not how it may be with others

Who sit amid relics of householdry

That date from the days of their mothers' mothers,

But well I know how it is with me"

Driving up to Hancox, especially at night, it looks gloomy, lowering, "spooky". I'm often asked whether it is haunted. No: neither I nor, as far as I know, anyone else, has seen a bona fide ghost here, or sensed a malign or restless presence. Yet it is not quite accurate to say that Hancox is inhabited only by the living. The lives of those who went before me still influence me, the family traits resurface every day. On the larder shelf is an old bottle, stoppered with a rag. At the bottom lies something blackish and coiled. I happen to know that this is a grass snake, used by my great-uncle Gillachrist in a friendly prank to give the cook a "turn". As keeper of this information, how could I ever justify throwing it away?

Hancox: A House and a Family by Charlotte Moore will be published by Viking/Penguin on 1 July, £20. To order a copy for £15.99 (including UK mainland p&p), go to guardian.co.uk/bookshop or call 0330 333 6846


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The threat of the splurge | Jan Morris

A city with architecture like Bath's fears updating. Its new development is dull as one of Mussolini's

If you stand on the ridge called Beechen Cliff, on the southern flank of Bath, you will see a large, off-white splurge of new buildings among the well-weathered fabric of the city below. It is not the first – Bath has been a city of constructional splurges. The Romans splurged there, and the whole place must have been in a state of splurge when, in the 18th century, the developers of the day swamped the little country town in fashionable pomp and symmetry. There was a splurge nicknamed the Sack of Bath in the 1960s, when traditionalists were horrified by the arrival of chainstore modernism, and ever since, splurges threatened or actual have kept the Civic Trust in a constant state of alert.

I am not altogether anti-splurge. When I lived in the city I tired of its lovely monotony, and pined for a splash of high Victorian excess now and then, or even a shot of vulgarity. I was not as disturbed as most of my neighbours when the Sack of Bath swept away some unremarked streets and replaced them with a gently modish shopping precinct. So when, the other day, I visited the Southgate project, just down the road from the Roman baths, a stone's throw from the Jane Austen promenades – I saw that new splurge of pale stonework, still incomplete, I hastened there in mingled hope and apprehension.

It must be hard to know how best to develop or modernise part of so elegantly homogeneous a city as Bath. You might employ one of your iconists, a Pei, a Foster or a Gehry, and he would make you a masterpiece which, by being utterly different from everything else in the city, would delight the cognoscenti and appal everybody else. Or you could consult a Prince Charles, whose proposals would have the opposite effect. The Southgate scheme is of the Caroline (Restoration) style, and is almost inevitably neoclassical. It is vaguely Bathonian in pattern: a rectangular group of seven big blocks, generally faced in Bath stone. Several minor streets enter it, one diagonal boulevard is centred on a small plaza, buildings are mostly three stories high and uniformly coloured. The main streets are restrained exhibitions of capitalist glitz, free of motor traffic. All in all, Southgate is a sophisticated shopping centre, containing dozens of stores, not all of the high street variety, pleasant street furniture, an underground car park and an utter lack of numen.

Of course, it is unfinished. There is nothing mean or vulgar to it. In time it will mellow and mature, its trees will grow, its roofs will jumble. Life will be breathed into it by its generations of shoppers and entrepreneurs. Its Georgian will feel less sham and self-conscious, and eventually perhaps some bold philistine will spoil its homogeneity with an anomalous neon display or even a post-ecumenical minaret – for what it especially lacks is not just a spire, but a sense of something beyond the retail.

Young enthusiasm would do, or something festive, perhaps. The only thing that has made me smile in the project is a solitary dress shop whose window display consists of hundreds and hundreds of antique sewing machines. Genuinely Georgian Bath, for all its stateliness, is full of smiles, unexpected vistas and invigorating contrasts – suddenly coming on the holiday sweep of the Royal Crescent is one of the great delights of European travel. But there is nothing sudden or quirky to the Southgate complex, nothing for a planner to object to but nothing to make the heart sing. It paradoxically lacks, I suppose it might be said, the quality of splurge.

It is a genial enough little conurbation, with nothing arrogant to it, but it does not make you feel that teams of architects dreamed it up in the splendour of their youth. In this it reminds me of the architecture of the dictators – Mussolini's vast faux-Augustan, the creepy gigantism of Albert Speer or the sameness Stalin imposed on half of Europe. The chief fault of all those styles is not that they were too big, or too showy or ideologically distasteful, but that they were boring. There is nothing offensive to the entirely mercenary Southgate project, but alas, it too is a bit of a bore.

Never mind, Europe got over those dictatorial styles, and Bath will doubtless absorb Southgate in the end. Just outside the complex stand the almost fictionally traditional premises of Bayntun-Riviere, one of the few truly great binderies of the world, who always bind my books for me. I looked in there as usual before I left and was not surprised to find it prospering as ever in its marvellously timeless ambience of craftsmanship and dedication, where nothing is dull or bogus. Before long the new Southgate structure on the opposite side of the street is going to blossom into a sumptuous Debenhams. And I have to admit, that will be handy.

• This article was amended on Tuesday 8 June 2010. The word Beechen was mis-spelt Beecham, this has now been corrected.


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How to make a small flat feel larger

How do you make a small flat feel larger, a cheap kitchen look expensive or a radiator disappear? The designer of this bijou flat has the answers. By Anne-Celine Jaeger

Hallway/landing

Tip Hide your radiators. "Paint them the same colour as the wall so they're unobtrusive – if it's a colour other than white, it's more striking," says interior designer Gill Richardson. This deep wine is Pelt by Farrow & Ball, £25.50/2.5 litres.
Tip "Keep the same flooring throughout a space to make the area seem larger," Richardson says. This carpet is Sisal Panama in blue/silver, £37.50/sq m, from Tailored Flooring. The wallpaper is Woods 69/12148, £38/roll, from Cole & Son.

Living space

Tip Create zones. "The best way to enlarge a small space is to decide what activity will go on in the room and allocate separate space for it," says Richardson, who designed this two-bed, top-floor Georgian flat in Bristol. She has created a dining area at the end of the living room, with a built-in bench and display shelves, painted in Dulux's Hebridean Mist 4, £19.49 for 2.5 litres (from dulux.co.uk). "Built-in furniture takes up less room because it's made to fit." Tip Look for replicas. This Danish-style 4/3 Pendant light is £65 from bluesuntree.co.uk, a quarter of the price of an original Louis Poulsen design. "Don't be afraid to mix styles: this mid-20th-century piece works well in a Georgian setting," Richardson says.

Kitchen

Tip Stick to one colour in different shades. "Use tones of the same colour to make some things stand out and others disappear," says Richardson. "This will trick the eye into thinking there's more depth than there really is." And remember, dark colours look posher. This strong blue (Dulux Venetian Crystal 1, £19.49 for 2.5 litres, from Dulux) on the kitchen units – which are cheap, plain carcasses from a trade shop – makes them appear solid and heavy, and therefore more expensive." Tip Think storage. "It's key to staying on top of a small space," Richardson says.

Bathroom

Tip Show as much floor as possible. "Fit a wall-hung toilet with a hidden cistern to make a small bathroom feel uncluttered." Tip Think vintage. "It warms up what is usually a boring clinical-looking room," says Richardson. Here, a decorative reclaimed piano upright is transformed into a bath panel. Tip Try something other than white. The brown-and-gold-flecked mosaic glass tiles behind the tub are Smokey Ridge, £55 per sq m, from Tiles Of Stow, and the turquoise paint is Dulux Velvet Touch 1 from Dulux.

Photographs by Holly Jolliffe


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Interiors: From crack house to modern house

The architects who turned a derelict one-time crack den into an award-winning family home

Back in 2005, when the market was booming, architect Patrick Michell and his partner, Claire McKeown, bought a three-bed house in Hackney, east London. The area boasts handsome terraces, but this house, a boarded-up former crack den, was in a sorry state. Fires had ripped through two rooms and there was a shabbily psychedelic paint scheme. Bailiffs had removed any character features that were left.

But to an architect wanting to make a property his own, it was perfect. "If there had been period features, we'd have worked more sensitively with them, but because it had all gone, we were free to give it a modernist slant," says Michell, 32.

He opened up the two front receptions, and transformed and expanded the narrow kitchen space at the back with a glass roof across the side return. The glass is one huge single piece, appearing to balance unaided on a wall of stone. The back wall is largely glass, too, with a ceiling-high, pivoting glass door to the garden and a glass box punched into the wall to create an appealing window seat. In summer, sunlight streams in, while at night trees tower in silhouette above your head. With a concrete floor inside extending out to the patio, the design aims to merge the two spaces. "I've made it fairly obvious what's new and what's original," Michell says, "and it's given the house a new character." Sightlines from the front door and bay are designed to run through to the garden, and the stairs have been opened up with a glass wall. Doesn't all the glass compromise their privacy? "You can't get away from it in London," McKeown says. "You have to accept that you'll have neighbours and sometimes they'll see what you're doing."

The extension was allowed under "permitted development" planning law, and the building work took nine months, during which time they moved into McKeown's rented flat. "I'd muscled in by this stage," says McKeown, 31, who trained as an architect. Between them, they took the tough decisions essential to any project – where to spend money and where to cut back. Michell's initial £125,000 budget finally came in at £190,000 – all part of the learning process, he says. (The house cost £378,000 at auction.) And though they cut back on the kitchen and joinery budgets, they spent money where it counted, on striking elements such as the glass.

They moved in before the work was finished, and tackled the tiling and painting themselves. "We had hot water, but nothing to cook on," Michell says. "It wasn't really the right thing to do." But for McKeown the excitement was worth it. Her tip for surviving? Build a wardrobe. "If I can get up in the morning and get dressed, I can cope with anything."

Almost finished, the house won an award earlier this year for the best London extension of the last five years. There are still jobs to do – shelves to put up, a front garden to complete – but they are happy to find every weekend is no longer dominated by DIY. They spend most of their time in the kitchen, and take particular pride in the window seat. Their only worry is that, having created a bespoke home, there can be no going back. As McKeown says, "We couldn't imagine living somewhere someone else has designed."


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Bunker mentality: the ultimate underground shelter

Come the end of the world, you might like to sit it out in style. All you need is money and a few DIY skills…

Abandon any notion of surviving the apocalypse by doing anything as boringly obvious as running for the highest hill, or eating cockroaches. The American firm Vivos is now offering you the chance to meet global catastrophe (caused by terrorism, tsunami, earthquake, volcano, pole shift, Iran, "social anarchy", solar flare – a staggering list of potential world-murderers are considered) in style.

Vivos is building 20 underground "assurance of life" resorts across the US, capable of sustaining up to 4,000 people for a year when the earth no longer can. The cost? A little over £32,000 a head, plus a demeaning-sounding screening test that determines whether you are able to offer meaningful contribution to the continuation of the human race. Company literature posits, gently, that "Vivos may prove to be the next Genesis", and they are understandably reluctant to flub the responsibility.

Should you have the credentials and the cash, the rewards of a berth in a Vivos shelter seem high. Each staffed complex has a decontamination shower and a jogging machine; a refrigerated vault for human DNA and a conference room with wheely chairs. There are TVs and radios, flat-screen computers, a hospital ward, even a dentist's surgery ready to serve those who forgot to pack a toothbrush in the hurry. "Virtually any meal" can be cooked from a stockpile of ingredients that includes "baked potato soup" but, strangely, no fish, tinned or otherwise. Framed pictures of mountain ranges should help ease the loss of a world left behind.

Vivos says it has already received 1,000 applications.

How long do the rest of us have to decide? "Nobody knows" when disaster will strike but Vivos takes a shot at guessing, sourcing clues from Nostradamus, the Bible and Native American lore to suggest 2019, 2029 and 2036 as danger years. But the real fear is for 21 December 2012, a date forecast for doom by the Mayans and towards which a countdown clock on Vivos's website ticks.

We ought not to get too comfy over the next couple of years either: President Obama's recent warnings about nuclear terrorism proved "timely", a Vivos spokesperson told the Observer. "Doomsday may be closer than many would otherwise like to believe..."

It's warning enough. £32,000? Check. Carpentry skills? Check. Jogging bottoms? Check. Good luck in the hills.


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