Posts Tagged Gardens
‘Secret garden’ Wrest Park reopens after restoration
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on August 1, 2011
The 90-acre park in Bedfordshire contains '300 years of garden history' and boasts Versailles-style views
Wrest Park restoration – in pictures
One of the UK's finest and least known gardens will on Tuesday be unveiled in newly restored glory after decades hidden away from the general public's gaze.
The 90 acres of Wrest Park in Bedfordshire are unarguably magnificent, probably Britain's largest "secret garden", with surprises around every wooded corner. Although it is a nationally important garden its existence has remained virtually unknown.
John Watkins, head of gardens and landscape at English Heritage, said Wrest Park was unusual because it retained designs from the 17th century to the 20th century.
"You can literally walk through 300 years of garden history," he said. "It's this palimpsest of garden history that is so special, but also it is stunningly beautiful – so you can come here whether you want to delve into the history of the place or just look at it."
Wrest Park was owned by the De Grey family for nearly 700 years and there are three key stages in the landscape's history – the formal woodland garden created by Henry, Duke of Kent, in 1706; changes made under the direction of Jemima, Marchioness Grey, in the 18th century's latter half; and then the work of her grandson Thomas, Earl de Grey, from 1833.
Wrest Park opens to the public on Thursday, revealing the first fruits of an ambitious 20-year restoration plan. As visitors step out from the French-inspired mansion, designed by Thomas in the 1830s to replace the old, dark and dingy house he demolished, they are met by a long, Versailles-like view of the central gardens.
Within the grounds there are examples of work by some of the most famous names in English gardening and architecture history, including Thomas Archer, who designed a magnificent baroque pavilion in 1709-11.
Then there is the hand of the most famous of them all, Lancelot "Capability" Brown, who was hired by Jemima in 1758 to make the boundary canals less formal and more natural.
A great gardening pioneer he may have been, but it is clear that while at Wrest, Brown was the "hired help". The rusticated column that was erected for Brown is inscribed with the words: "These gardens originally layed out by Henry Duke of Kent were altered by Henry Duke of Hardwicke and Jemima Marchioness Grey with the professional assistance of Lancelot Brown, 1758, 1759 and 1760."
Closer examination of the column reveals cracks from where a big beech tree fell down in the 1990s, crushing the monument. "This was before we took over the site, and it highlighted to us the importance of getting Wrest Park into protection," said Watkins.
Other surprises in the gardens include a tucked-away bath house, built in 1770 to resemble a semi-ruined classical building. Inside, family and friends would have walked across the pebble and deer vertebrae floor, to step, probably quite slowly, into the cold water plunge pool.
Then there is a small dog graveyard with headstones for family pets down the years, and a good source of inspiration for anyone stuck for a name: Douba, perhaps? Or Freuah, Una, Little Dick, Dingey, Busy, Fury, Dorroch, Phedra, , Nissy, Kelpie, Tottie, Petsy or Pet.
Jemima was in charge of the gardens for a long time and comes across as an enlightened but slightly dotty matriarch. There is, for example, the Mithraic altar she devised with her husband, which has seemingly Persian and Greek text, but is no more than an intellectual joke.
After Thomas, the gardens were looked after well with the house remaining remained in the family until Auberon Herbert in 1905, who leased Wrest Park to the US ambassador. During the first world war it was used as a military hospital.
When Herbert, a liberal politician and captain in the Royal Flying Corps, died in action, the estate was sold to northern industrialist JG Murray who felled quite a lot of trees when things got financially tricky.
He sold it to Sun Alliance Insurance in 1939 and after the second world war it became a centre for modern agricultural engineering research.
English Heritage took over in 2006 and devised a restoration plan stretching over 20 years. It was helped by a £1.14m grant by the Heritage Lottery Fund. The first phase being seen this week includes the restored Italian and rose gardens, a new exhibition on its history and access to the miles of pathways and vistas set over the 90 acres.
Simon Thurley, English Heritage's chief executive, said: "Wrest Park tells the story of England's love affair with landscape. It is a unique place capturing 300 years of gardening history. So now with the successful completion of this first phase of restoration, Wrest Park can rightfully reclaim its place as one of the great gardens of England."
Wrest Park restoration – in pictures
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on August 1, 2011
Wrest Park in Bedfordshire opens to the public on Thursday after the first phase of a 20-year restoration plan
Green planet: Charles Jencks’s gardens – in pictures
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on June 23, 2011
Landscape architect Charles Jencks merges an interest in cosmology with a love of landscape design to create swirling, spiralling land sculptures. Weave your way through some of his cosmic creations
Peter Zumthor unveils secret garden for Serpentine pavilion
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on April 5, 2011
Swiss master architect will create contemplative garden courtyard enclosed by lightweight black-clad structure
Peter Zumthor, Swiss master of meditative, one-off, and highly crafted buildings, has released images of his design for this year's Serpentine Gallery pavilion in London's Kensington Gardens. The pavilion, which opens in July and closes in September, will take the form of a contemplative garden courtyard created by the Dutch designer Piet Oudolf, enclosed by a low-key and lightweight timber structure Zumthor plans to wrap and coat with scrim and black paste mixed with sand. Visitors will enter the low-lying pavilion through a number of doors and follow several different paths between outer and inner walls into Zumthor and Oudolf's secret garden.
The idea underpinning the design is that of a garden of quiet pleasure and ruminative calm set just a couple of minutes from the 24-hour motorised roar of Kensington Gore. "The concept", says Zumthor, "is the hortus conclusus, a contemplative room, a garden within a garden. The building acts as a stage, a backdrop for the interior garden of flowers and light. Through blackness and shadow one enters the building from the lawn and begins the transition into the central garden, a place abstracted from the world of noise and traffic and the smells of London – an interior space within which to sit, to walk, to observe the flowers. This experience will be intense and memorable, as will the materials themselves – full of memory and time."
In practice, it will be interesting to see how the Serpentine Gallery attempts to maintain an aura of floral calm in what, for the past decade and more, has been one of the most popular of the art world's summer events. With Zumthor offering a marriage of the Serpentine pavilion and the Chelsea flower show, crowds flocking to this nominally tranquil and self-effacing black-clad building may well be larger, and noisier, than usual. Zumthor, however, says his design "aims to help its audience take the time to relax, to observe and then, perhaps, start to talk again."
As with architects of the previous 10 Serpentine pavilions, Zumthor's is the architect's first completed building in England. The series began with Zaha Hadid in 2000 and has included such giants as Oscar Niemeyer, Alvaro Siza, Rem Koolhaas and Frank Gehry. What makes Zumthor stand out from such famous company is the fact that he tends to design just one carefully considered building at a time. Recently, he turned down an opportunity to consider a new library for Magdalen College, Oxford that most architects would have welcomed like manna from heaven. Like the most beautiful gardens, Zumthor's architecture is not to be hurried.
Zumthor, born in Basel in 1943, trained as a cabinet-maker before training as an architect. He came to international attention with the exquisite thermal baths he designed in Vals, a village in Switzerland's Graubünden canton. At once ancient and modern, the atmospheric baths, completed in 1996, form a gently haunting part of the natural landscape. Crafted from layers of local quartzite, they are truly beautiful and sited well away from the summer crowds of Swiss cities.
Since then, Zumthor's Kunsthaus in Bregenz, Austria, Kolumba Art Museum, Cologne and Bruder Klaus Field Chapel, on a farm near Wachendorf, Germany have added greatly to his reputation. He won the Pritzker prize for architecture in 2009.
Zumthor's Serpentine pavilion, designed in cooperation with the engineers, Arup, will operate as a public space and as a venue for Park Nights, the gallery's high-profile programme of public talks and events.
Julia Peyton-Jones, director of the Serpentine Gallery, said: "It is an honour and a great joy to be working with Peter Zumthor on the 11th Serpentine Gallery pavilion. The commission allows us to connect with the best architects in the world and each year is an exciting and completely new experience. Zumthor's plans will realise an exquisite space for the public to enjoy throughout the summer."
Maggie’s centres: how one woman’s vision is changing cancer treatment
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on February 20, 2011
Maggie Keswick Jencks was a designer with a passion for gardens. As she was dying of cancer, she created the blueprint for cancer care centres that recognise how design can help recovery. Here friends and family recall a remarkable woman
When Maggie Keswick Jencks was 47 she was diagnosed with breast cancer. Five years later she started to have severe back pain and, after two misdiagnoses, went to her local GP's surgery in Dumfries where she was told the cancer had spread to her bones, liver and bone marrow. In a home video, made for her mother, she described what happened next. She and her husband were told to see a visiting Edinburgh consultant. They waited in an "awful interior space" with neon lighting and then the nurse told them to come in. They asked: "How long have we got?" To which the doctor said: "Do you really want to know?" "Yes we really want to know."
"Two to three months."
"Oh…!"
And then the nurse explained. "I'm very sorry, dear, but we'll have to move you out into the corridor, we have so many people waiting." They sat in a "windowless corridor trying to deal with this business, having two to three months to live. And as we sat there, various nurses who I knew came up and said, very cheerfully, 'Hello dear, how are you?' 'Well,' managing a laugh, 'I'm fine!'"
This was the story that became Maggie's spur – the NHS corridor that would lead to her big idea. There might be no cure for Maggie's cancer but here was something that could be changed. Why shunt people with cancer into miserable surroundings? Didn't people need respect, time and space? With the support of her young nurse, Laura Lee, Maggie would devote the rest of her life to planning a cancer caring centre. She had a feel for what was needed and the drive and money, as daughter of the director of the Scottish trading company Jardine Matheson, to do something about it. She understood the need to feel in charge (not a helpless passenger in a hospital production line). She realised people might want to find out more about their treatment options. And she knew a beautiful space was needed in which to digest even the worst of news. She envisaged a room with a view – and a library. And she argued for an "old-fashioned ladies' room – not a partitioned toilet in a row". This would supply "privacy for crying, water for washing the face, and a mirror for getting ready to deal with the world outside again". She knew that, in a crisis, everything counts, even – or especially – the little things.
"Little" does not describe what has happened in the 15 years since her death: her idea has taken off. Today, there are 15 centres – seven up and running, seven in the pipeline (opening before 2012) and one online (a V&A display this month celebrates the achievement). Yet Maggie's centres are anything but pushy: they are only ever built at the invitation of NHS Trusts and, usually, in the grounds of hospitals with oncology departments. Unsurprisingly, hospitals recognise they need them and architects are queuing up to build them. And the existing centres have tremendous architectural prestige (Frank Gehry, Zaha Hadid, Page and Park have all designed one). But they are about far more than architecture for architecture's sake. Above all, they remind us that it is not frivolous to care about design. And this year the British Medical Association is also, at last, acknowledging architecture's importance as an ingredient in recovery. It is calling on healthcare organisations to "prioritise design in future building projects" after a new report showed that "architectural environment can significantly affect patients' recovery times." We are – to some extent – what we see.
I visited London's Maggie's centre for the first time last summer. Designed by architects Richard Rogers and Ivan Harbour of Rogers Stirk Harbour, it is audaciously beautiful. When you approach it from Fulham Palace Road, you notice it has turned its back on the ugly facade of Charing Cross hospital. It is painted orange in defiance of London's greyness and bad news in all its forms. And its extraordinary roof looks as though it has levitated. The whole building is serenely irrepressible. What is so winning is that it feels like home (although more elegant than any I know) and yet is an in-between space. It is not a retreat or a hospice or a clinic – it is a drop-in centre and it is free. It offers information, advice on nutrition, relaxation classes and a psychologist for anyone needing to talk about the most intractable subjects (depression, fear of dying, dread of cancer returning and other issues not easy to address in a hospital environment).
On the day I visited, the building was full of sunlight. I loved its attention to detail: the bowl of fruit on the kitchen table, the sunhats on pegs in the hall, the lack of signs bossily telling you where to go. And this is the key: you decide what to make of a Maggie's centre. You can walk in and out unnoticed if that is what you prefer. It is perfect for company – or contemplation. I visited at a time when one of my friends was dying of cancer in another country and kept thinking what it would mean to her to have such a place on her doorstep. While I was there, I also found myself thinking about Maggie, as anyone with even a scrap of curiosity visiting her centres must. I wanted to know more about her.
Photographs show a slender, vivid woman with dark curly hair and a dreamer's face when not smiling to camera. One can see the pluck in Maggie, especially in a picture taken at a Scottish picnic, just after her diagnosis – a blaze of a smile on her face, no shadow in sight. I had four people in mind to help me bring her into view: her husband, the writer and landscape architect Charles Jencks, her former nurse, Laura Lee, one of her many friends, Anne Chisholm, and her daughter, Lily. But what I could not predict was that meeting Lily would turn out to be as close to encountering Maggie as could be imagined. Friends exclaim at the likeness between them. And this pleases Lily. She is also following in both her parents' footsteps in having taken up landscape architecture as a career. She designed the garden for Frank Gehry's Hong Kong Maggie's centre and is now working, with Rotterdam architect Rem Koolhaas on the garden for Glasgow's second centre.
Whenever she pictures her mother, she recalls her wearing a green velvet floppy hat "like one of Jamiroquai's". She has the hat but never wears it. "My friends try it on all the time." She ought, she says, laughing, to share it with her elder brother, John (who runs a film production company), as it is "iconic". When I ask about the last two years of her mother's life, she remembers how hard it was to talk about cancer. In some ways, it still is. Lily is 30 now but was 13 then – a "nightmarish" age: "You can't hide anything from a 13-year-old." No one told her what had been said in that Dumfries surgery. But she knew. "Yet, as you know, my mother went on to live for another two years."
She is gentle and unjudgmental about her mother and herself. She understands how hard it was for Maggie to know what to say. Lily remembers her coming into her bedroom to show her hair falling out in clumps. She tried to be honest. She wanted Lily to understand. Yet the need for reassurance was mutual. Lily remembers a car journey to family friends during which Maggie asked her daughter how she looked. Lily said "healthy and full of life". It was only when she heard her mother repeating this verdict, with obvious pleasure, that "I realised how sick she actually was". And there was no Maggie's centre to help them navigate (let alone what is now being piloted in Maggie's Dundee – a support programme specifically directed at teenagers).
As a mother, Maggie was "sensitive" and "careful to spend special time with us alone and was always trying to be aware of our feelings – in case that space got lost in everyday life". Lily remembers cycling with her mother at a time when the effort to be on a bike must have been great but she gave no sign of it. She also remembers how Maggie's bed was often strewn with papers when she was very sick. It is only now she realises they were her precious blueprints for the first centre. "She was very concerned about them," Lily recalls.
It is a tribute to Maggie that her family, her nurse and many friends (some of them architects) have all, after her death, become involved in the centres, as if to keep faith with her. Laura Lee was a young nurse working at the breast chemotherapy suite at the Western General in Edinburgh when they met. She is now CEO of the centres. She is warm and engaging. It is easy to see why Maggie loved her. She does her job impressively too. "The landscape of cancer is changing," she explains, "because more people are surviving. Those with a recurrence live longer. The need for these centres has never been greater because people are living with cancer as a part of life." Laura explains that the centres are funded by investors and public fundraising and tells me about the many and inventive initiatives (such as an annual, sponsored 20-mile night hike through London). Everyone says that Lee is a dynamo without whom the centres could not flourish as they do. Laura remembers the moment at which her friendship with Maggie became "professional" and a shared mission: they travelled the UK and USA researching cancer care centres.
Looking back, Laura had no idea of the scale of what they were starting. Her first impression of Maggie and Charles as a couple was that they had tremendous presence. She found Maggie gentle, polite and "not at all passive". She wanted to know whether she should "go with the sense that her body was deteriorating and weak". She took an intense interest in her treatment. Understandably, her first reaction after the grim Dumfries prognosis had been to give up. But while she was retreating, her husband was in fast-forward, combing the world for cures. In her gallant essay "A view from the front line" (required reading for anyone interested in Maggie or in arming themselves against cancer), she describes the effort of will it took to fight on, and why it was hard: "deciding to give up the certainty of death for the uncertain prospect of a stay of execution: if I got into the fighting mode, and it failed, would I ever get back to this precariously balanced acceptance?" But there came a moment for Maggie and Charles when they, simultaneously, realised they would do everything they could to prolong her life. And Maggie wanted to win more time for her young children's sake as well as for her own.
The breakthrough was discovering that Dr Robert Leonard, at the Western General, was conducting a trial in advanced metastatic breast cancer (high-dose chemo and stem-cell replacement), for which Maggie was suitable. This – and her whole-hearted and intelligent involvement in diet and complementary treatment alongside it – would win her almost two more years. Maggie tended to be positive. She once wrote that the goal for people in her situation – not easy to achieve – was to try not to "lose the joy of living in the fear of dying" – words that have become a catchphrase at her centres. Laura thinks that her focus was always on the luck she had in life. When first diagnosed with breast cancer, she saw the cancer almost as a paying of dues for her privileged life.
Maggie was born in 1941. Her background was not only privileged, it was exotic – divided between Scotland, Shanghai and Hong Kong. Her father was a remarkable tycoon who, during the communist takeover of Shanghai, unlike most Europeans stayed on to help feed a starving population. He was rich but also philanthropic. And he spoke fluent Chinese. Maggie was an adored only child and might easily have been spoilt. But she never was. She was raised a Catholic (becoming, according to her husband, more of a Buddhist/Catholic later in life). She was educated at Woldingham in Surrey and at Lady Margaret Hall, Oxford, where she read English. Anne Chisholm met her at university and remembers her as "light on her feet, buoyant, vividly alive. While the rest of us were creeping around in various stages of lumpishness, here was this dazzling creature – much more stylish than any of us, she could lift a room." Maggie would cook Chinese delicacies in the pantry at her college. The oriental drifted into her dress sense too. She would train a Chinese scarf across her chin, securing it with a knot (in the rum fashion of the time). She was clever, funny, a good listener and a performer (acting in student productions with Esther Rantzen as co-thespian). She sang well and could quote yards of poetry by heart. She was an attractive mixture: an empathetic extrovert.
In 1965, after leaving university, she and a friend launched a boutique, Annacat (named after their dogs). The look, according to Chisholm, was "daughter of Mary Quant". Jencks remembers it more as "Victorian freestyle" (like some outlandish swimming stroke). At that time, Maggie became "a celebrity with the smallest of cs" (in a photograph by David Bailey, she looks the embodiment of the Swinging 60s). But fashion would prove too insubstantial for her. In 1970, she joined the Architectural Association and met Charles Jencks, an American architectural writer and landscape architect teaching there. He remembers how vivacious she was. But he adds: "The thing about Maggie is that she was vulnerable." She was insecure about her looks, did not believe in the beauty others saw in her. She'd spend ages trying to get her clothes right – and be late for dinner. She tended to be late generally. But people warmed to her because as her husband says: 'More than almost anyone I've met, she had a liking for people and they felt that in her."
In 1978, the year in which she married, she published a scholarly book on Chinese gardens. Scotland was always important to her – but China was to be the defining influence. Jencks remembers she made several solo research trips to China, once bringing back for him memorably inconvenient souvenirs: Chinese bullet-hole rocks (called "Scholars Rocks") and "according to ancient custom" a pet cricket in a tiny wooden box which she kept in her blouse and which, during its brief life, drove him crazy. Charles and Maggie understood each other well. Anne Chisholm says Maggie "adored Charlie and his ideas". And she acknowledged that she would not have produced her book without his help. She described herself as a "creative ditherer" – a perfectionist. As she wrote in her acknowledgements, "without his constant badgering and insistence, I should still be on Chapter One." Chinese gardens are seldom written about (Japanese gardens tend to steal the show) but Maggie put these gardens firmly on the map and lectured about them around the world. She described Chinese gardens as "cosmic diagrams, revealing a profound and ancient view of the world, and of man's place in it".
And, strange as it might seem, the passion for Chinese gardens has influenced the Maggie's centres. The sense of the cosmic diagram, the belief that architecture – and gardens – have meaning is essential to understanding Maggie, her husband and the way the centres have evolved. Charles Jencks is a man of tremendous charm and playful erudition (he has dubbed the game of looking round the house he shared with Maggie in London's Notting Hill as "hunt the symbol".) He describes the home, which has become a postmodern landmark, as cosmic. And it is extraordinary to visit it because nothing in it is idly itself. The stairs are an "abstract realisation of the solar year". Maggie's kitchen represents Indian summer. Even the loo has its story. It is wonderful in a way. But it must be exhaustingly inexhaustible to live in it. Apparently, Maggie once said: "I understand, Charles, everything has to symbolise something but symbolism stops at my door." He followed her prohibition to the letter – literally. We inspect Maggie's door – with a carved letter M and open book. And then he shows me her desk which, to his delight, shows her breaking her own rule. She painted it in Johnston tartan: greens and blues with a yellow stripe – as symbolic as could be.
Maggie's centres have their "meaning" too – but of a more instantly graspable sort. "They are," Jencks says, "to do with the way living and dying are part of one thing." There is, he goes on, nothing new about the overlap between health and culture. He cites Hospices de Beaunes and Stonehenge (now thought by some to have been a healing centre) in the sweep of his argument. And in his delightful new book The Architecture of Hope, you can see that each Maggie's centre is different – it is up to visitors to settle on individual meanings. Maggie would have loved unravelling the thinking behind each centre: Frank Gehry's homely centre in Dundee looks as if a child made its roof out of folded foil (you want to pat it); Zaha Hadid's in Fife, with its shark-like exterior made of sparkling silicone carbide grit, allows its visitors to move, in a boldly metaphorical way, from darkness to light; Page and Park's ingenious Inverness centre has a green copper roof and a design based on the idea of a dividing cell. And six new centres are planned to be built before 2012 – Wilkinson Eyre's tree house, which goes on site in Oxford next year, is my favourite: leafily escapist.
But the place that is perhaps Maggie's most personal memorial is not one of her centres at all. It is Portrack, the 18th-century country house in Dumfriesshire she inherited from her parents where, with Charles, she designed a garden now dedicated to her memory. It is a most awe-inspiring place with 60ft manmade mounds and vast lakes, a dramatic discourse between water and land and a swirling exchange of shapes (the lakes were Maggie's design). And it is this place that keeps coming up in conversation. Anne recalls seeing Maggie at Portrack, in her last year and watching her "running up one of the mounds as if she was 20 years old, with nothing wrong with her". Lily can still picture her mother, out in the garden, sketching. And Laura remembers sitting with Maggie at the top of one of the hills, with the sun on their faces. They didn't talk about death, she says, they did not need to, it was understood.
Maggie died on 8 July, 1995. "I remember running away from the hospital," Lily says. "I couldn't believe birds were still singing, the world turning. I remember watching, in disbelief, as someone crossed the road as if nothing had happened." Every morning, she would wake and, for a second, not know her mother had gone – and then the news would hit her again. Even now, she gets upset about it – although she never can predict when she will be ambushed. She would like to be able to ask her mother's advice about the big decisions in her life. She minds that, when she has children herself, they will not have a grandmother. She remembers now how tiring grief was. And, although that has lifted: "I don't think the pain goes away, you just get used to it. There is a hole inside of me but I know it is part of me."
It is winter when I return to the London centre. I walk through Dan Pearson's garden which is planted with 100 birches and runs parallel to one of London's most polluted roads – it seems an act of faith in itself. Some shy hellebores are flowering and Hannah Bennett's smooth sculptures stand out like polished melons – not stepping but sitting stones. Inside, there is a fire in a wood-burning stove and waiting logs, stacked neatly behind glass, are a heartening sight. It is marvellously peaceful. Lily tells me she is often asked, by visitors at the centres, about her mother. "People are really happy to meet me which is so touching. They want to know what Maggie was like." And oddly enough, one of the visitors, while I am there, looks up from the computer – she must have heard me talking – and asks whether I knew Maggie. I hesitate. I am tempted to say: "Yes."
Chiswick House and Gardens: A grand Palladian villa is reborn and the caff’s pretty classy too
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on June 13, 2010
Gallery: Images from the recently restored gardens and the superb new cafe at Chiswick House and Gardens
Chiswick House: And the caff’s pretty classy too
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on June 12, 2010
A grand Palladian villa is reborn in west London, while at the V&A, a Japanese master is celebrating altogether humbler dwellings
This week, I present to you a whitish building, mostly rectangular, made with large pieces of glass and some nice stone. This may not seem very exciting, especially as works of this description have been the default setting of tasteful British architecture for 20 years. The recent shortlist for designing the relocated Design Museum was made up of purveyors of whitish rectangularity and nice stone, including the winner of the commission, John Pawson. If Inuit are said to have 26 different words for snow, an architecture critic sometimes needs 26 words for off-white.
But this building is designed by architects with a rare sense of those things – relationships, scale, details, nuance, light, matter and pitch – that make a place. It is also in a location, the gardens of Chiswick House in west London, that the chief executive of English Heritage, Simon Thurley, calls "incredibly important" and compares to Stonehenge. Chiswick House helped to change the world or, at any rate, the world of gardens. Created from the 1720s to the 1740s by the wealthy Lord Burlington and his protege, William Kent, it led the way in breaking with the formal geometries of baroque gardens and replacing them with asymmetric and informal patterns that mimicked and followed the shapes of nature. Kent, as Horace Walpole said, "leaped the fence and saw that all nature was a garden". After him came the landscape gardens of Capability Brown and Humphry Repton and, ultimately, every hillock and winding path, and every picturesque gazebo and rockery in suburban gardens everywhere, can claim descent.
The centrepiece of the garden is Chiswick Villa, a domed and porticoed party pavilion created by Burlington and Kent in approximate imitation of Palladio's Villa Rotonda near Vicenza, helping to establish the Palladian style in England. It is hard to think of a more influential work in British architecture and landscape, yet it has been treated negligently for a century or so. The villa has been an asylum for posh lunatics and a fire station, with trucks parked outside. The 17th-century house to which the villa was attached was demolished, to save on maintenance costs.
There was once a risk that the gardens would be submerged under speculative semi-detacheds, but they became a municipal park. This opening up of aristocratic territory is nicely democratic, but it also contributed to the erosion of its original design. Like most British parks, it has suffered since Margaret Thatcher's government decided that spending on open spaces was not a statutory obligation on local authorities. According to Thurley, the gardens became "a big dog lavatory, and a set of targets for youths with spray cans".
Part of the problem was that the villa was the responsibility of English Heritage and the gardens of the London borough of Hounslow, a contradiction of the fact that the "whole point of Chiswick is that the house and gardens were a single entity". A trust has therefore been set up, with the task of managing both together. This has to sustain itself in part through income from events and parties, though £12m from the Heritage Lottery Fund, English Heritage and private donors and sponsors has gone into restoring the gardens and building a new cafe.
The restoration, led by English Heritage, has been a matter of cleaning up, decluttering and unclogging the gardens, as well as restoring its temples and follies. Inopportune fences have been removed and a jumble of different seats and litter bins has been simplified. The sweep from the villa down to an artificial lake has been returned to its original openness and previously blocked vistas have been restored. It is simple, not glamorous, but essential stuff. Later extensions, including a patterned, 19th-century "Italian garden" and a magnificent hothouse, have also been restored.
Then there is the whitish, squarish, nice stone building. This is the cafe, an essential part of the trust's business plan, built at a cost of £1.4m to the designs of the architects Caruso St John, who are leading lights of the generation after Zaha Hadid and the David Chipperfield. It is carefully located, off to one side of the villa, like a fragmentary echo of the wings that Palladio added to his houses. Its position is considered, in the English landscape tradition, in relation to surrounding trees, to the position of the sun and to the outdoor spaces that form around it.
The cafe's style is simplified classical, but with nuances and twists. Its pillars are precisely cut but are of a pitted and pocked Portland stone that resembles the rustic stuff of grottoes. They make high, deep arcades, because, says the architect Peter St John, "the nicest al fresco lunches are in arcades in Spain and Italy". The arcades also allow different kinds of use in different seasons – they can be more or less occupied depending on the weather.
If the original villa was a place for sophisticated townies to party in a contrived version of nature, the cafe is also urbane. Its proportions are more elevated than a typical park cafe, the lamp shades have a surprising mirrored finish. The pillars of the arcade are out of synch with the verticals in the inner wall, which creates unexpected shifts in the interior experience. Sometimes, you feel thoroughly enclosed, sometimes almost at one with the green outside. It nicely captures the best of the spirit of Kent and Burlington: the idea that you adapt, modify and tune the nature that you find, rather than subjugate it.
Terunobu Fujimori's Beetle's House
Meanwhile, at the V&A, you will be able to see a different take on building and nature. This is an installation by Terunobu Fujimori, a Japanese historian who, in his 40s, turned his hand to designing buildings. It is part of the V&A's 1:1 – Architects Build Small Spaces exhibition, in which structures by seven architects are dotted around the London museum.
Fujimori's favourite material is charred wood, a traditional material in Japan, which, if the scorching is done correctly, has properties of endurance and weather-resistance. In a memorable exhibit at the Venice Architecture Biennale, visitors had to enter, stooping, through small, square holes in a blackened screen, the holes being framed in gold leaf. He also likes mud, thatch and wonky tree trunks.
When I meet Fujimori in the south London workshop where his V&A structure was made, the atmosphere is thick with smoke and flecks of ash fall on hair and skin. A rough-hewn stump is being prepared as the base of a little hut to be installed in the museum. Students are doing the scorching and the sticking together – he likes non-professional builders, plus himself, to build his works. Some are stapling bits of charcoal on to ceiling panels to form a decorative pattern. This is not very craftsmanly but Fujimori says that's the point: high degrees of technique would be excluding. Anyone can put up his buildings.
He centres all his structures around a living fire, saying that the origin of building lay in the need to shelter a flame. He also happily admits that his designs, with all their carbonising and burning, are nothing to do with sustainability. They are personal images of the primitive and he does not seem concerned whether anyone else derives satisfaction from them.
My feelings for his work vary between an attraction to his tactile materials and a reaction against the Hobbity quaintness of some of the finished products. Also disappointment in the way he builds – engaging non-experts is all very well, but there's nothing very life-enhancing about chomping at charcoal with staplers.
Britain’s garden state
Posted by The Sheet in Architecture News on June 9, 2010
Gardens as evocative as paintings are among Britain's greatest contributions to world culture. Jonathan Jones visits a newly restored classic – and learns about time, suffering and renewal
London's air is being sucked away by the traffic on Hogarth Lane, a brutal western conduit into the capital apparently named by someone with a rich sense of irony – a characterless streak of tar named after the 18th century's most characterful painter. The reason for the incongruous moniker is Hogarth's House, once the artist's country retreat, and currently closed after fire damage.
This part of west London seems the last place you might come in search of beauty. But then you see a gateway, and escape down a sleepy, tree-lined avenue that leads to one of Britain's most influential works of art. A garden is not a sculpture, or a painting, or a sketch. In the language of 21st-century art, we might call it an installation; the older, more Wagnerian term would be a gesamtkunstwerk, or total work of art. Whatever your preferred term, the gardens of Chiswick House, which unite architecture, landscaping, sculpture and pictorial vistas, is the perfect place to learn about one of Britain's most original contributions to world culture: the garden as a work of art. This month, the gardens reopen to the public following an expensive restoration project.
There is more than one irony to Hogarth's association with this spot. In his day, it was odd that he chose to live next door to someone whose pretensions he mocked. Chiswick House and its garden are the creation of Richard Boyle, Earl of Burlington, a super-patron of the early 1700s and a man whose attempts to import chic Italian architecture into Britain are ridiculed in Hogarth's painting Marriage A-la-Mode I. Here, builders take a break from working on one of Burlington's classical buildings, while a gouty aristocrat brokers a wedding between his soppy son and a merchant's daughter – to raise cash for yet more architectural follies and poncey gardens.
The real Burlington was stupendously rich. If Hogarth satirised his taste, Burlington's friend the poet Alexander Pope praised it. "You show us Rome was glorious, not profuse," he enthused in a poem addressed to the earl. He meant that Burlington tried to impose what we might now call a minimalist sensibility on early 18th-century Britain, preaching the architecture of Andrea Palladio, a calm, elegant style. Chiswick House is not so much a home as a white pavilion, floating coolly between park and sky, built in imitation of one of Palladio's masterpieces.
Chiswick was the earl's weekend home. This was free, rural space then: all along the Thames, from here to Hampton Court, anyone who could afford it built a pleasure house on London's Riviera. Here Burlington would entertain the glitterati and educate them in his architectural ideals. When the games of cards and the lectures on the Vitruvian orders palled, ladies and gentlemen clad in floral-patterned silk could wander in his gardens. Burlington's stretch of parkland, created with his architect William Kent, became one of the most imitated in the country.
The earlier formal gardens of 17th-century Britain were in their way more "modern", more scientific, than those that followed. Gardens of the Stuart age – you can see them in tapestries and paintings, and visit examples such as the unfortunately-named Privy Garden at Hampton Court – gloried in isolation and repetition. Rows of conifers trimmed to perfect cones, lemon trees in pots, ranks of equally spaced tulips: the uniformity of such gardens had the merit of showing off individual species, in a way that suited the scientific revolution. Between the potted plants, there was space – lots of space.
At Chiswick, by contrast, the garden is not a grid: it is a landscape. A man-made waterfall sends glittering walls of water tumbling past artfully rusticated blocks of mossy stone towards the curling, riverine lake. A bridge crossing the lake's narrowest part might have been imported stone by stone from Venice. There is an obelisk, then a corridor of trees towards woodland, where terrapins sunbathe on a log raised from the still waters. Another sightline leads to a building modelled on the grottoes of Renaissance Italy.
After centuries of evolution, the new restoration makes clear the shape of Burlington's original design. An 18th-century map of the garden, on permanent display in the V&A British galleries, helps. You can see how rich the garden was with labyrinths of serpentine paths; how its statues, temples and other structures were set in natural-seeming vales and glades. Pope wrote that the originality of this garden was to be "natural", to go with the flow of the land and its climate, rather than imposing a chilly order on imprisoned flowers.
A semi-circular hedge is home to a group of Roman senators, their stone robes mouldered by time. Nearby, a bearded face tops a marble term. The classical faces emerging from foliage recall the French painter Watteau, whose misty pastoral scenes are contemporary with Chiswick. The garden's most brilliant coup is a grass amphitheatre sculpted out of a natural hollow, whose banks were carved to a circular harmony. At one side of this harmonised valley stands a temple with a little dome; at its centre is a pool crowned by an obelisk. This combination deliberately recalls the paintings of Claude, the French landscape artist beloved of British aristocrats (and of anyone who likes to daydream). Any pomposity is diffused by a stone monument close to the path: its Latin epitaph playfully commemorates a pet dog.
The poet Ian Hamilton Finlay would have liked this. His garden, Little Sparta, which has just reopened for its annual summer season, is proof that the garden can still be a work of art. Finlay followed the example of aristocrats such as Burlington in creating a landscape saturated with meaning. Buildings, statues and inscriptions turned his Scottish garden into a text, written in nature, ripe with myth and history, Apollo and Pan cavorting among stone submarines and hand grenades.
A walk through sublime vistas
Between Chiswick and Little Sparta runs a glorious history of British gardens. After Burlington, other landowners went to even greater lengths to sculpt their landscapes. At Stowe in Buckinghamshire, the classical allegories were mixed with oblique political references (a Temple of Liberty, populated by statues of Saxon gods). Stourhead in Wiltshire is another masterpiece, a walk through sublime vistas. The art of the garden came to be seen as specifically British, and it was the British who naturalised its poetry, setting it in parklands so finely tuned to the living contours of hill and lake that it is hard to tell what is nature and what is art.
On Hogarth Lane, the traffic à la mode scorns stillness. At Chiswick, the art of the garden affords visions of time slowed. It's one thing to see gardens as art. You can call cooking art, or fashion, and much else besides. But great art is more than a brilliant display. Great art is profound: it teaches us about death, suffering, time. This is where the British art of the landscape garden triumphs. When you walk the paths of Chiswick, you intuit something about permanence and renewal, time and eternity. The grasses and trees, reborn every spring; the breezes, passing in an instant; ourselves, as children climbing trees and as adults, all speak of change and action, while the garden and its architecture allude to eternal, elusive truths. It is serious, in the way a painting by Claude is serious. It's not just art – it's great art.
Menace, anger and beauty: Britain's art gardens
Little Sparta, Ian Hamilton Finlay
Increasingly recognised as one of the most important British artworks of the last half century, this is a place of poetry and history. Finlay infused it with images of violence and war – stone hand grenades, submerged submarines – to create, paradoxically, an angry garden.
Dolphinston, near Edinburgh, open Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, 2.30-5pm, until 29 September. Details: littlesparta.co.uk
Prospect Cottage, Derek Jarman
The film-maker created something from nothing, an outsider artwork that is now his enduring monument, at a place both beautiful and menaced by the nearby power station.
Prospect Cottage, Dungeness, Kent.
The Garden of Cosmic Speculation, Charles Jencks
Architectural writer Jencks, champion of postmodernism, pursued an openly new age theme in his garden of orotund earthworks and soothing lakes.
Portrack House, Dumfries and Galloway. By appointment only. Details: gardensofscotland.org